Makeup Removing Soap Bar (pH 5.5): Ingredients, Safety, and DIY Feasibility

Asked by: gomu_bazooga On: December 06, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding makeup removing soap bars with a pH of 5.5:

  1. What types of ingredients are typically used in these low-pH soap bars for effective makeup removal?
  2. Are the ingredients commonly found in such formulations, like Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Threoninate, TEA Cocoyl Glutamate, Arginine Cocoate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Rice Bran Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Dimethicone peg7 isostearate, Lanolin, Ceramide, Phytosphingosine, and Cholesterol, considered safe?
  3. Why is it difficult to replicate the solid bar form of this type of soap at home, unlike traditional high-pH soap bars made via cold-process or melt-and-pour methods?
  4. Is it possible to create a similar makeup removing product with comparable effectiveness in a different format, such as a liquid or cream cleanser, using some of the same ingredients?

Answer

Understanding the Makeup Removing Soap

The effectiveness of the soap you described in removing makeup likely comes from a blend of various cleansing agents (surfactants) and potentially some oil-based ingredients that help dissolve makeup.

The ingredient lists show several types of surfactants:

  • Traditional soap salts: Lauric acid and stearic acid, when combined with a base like Sodium Hydroxide (in the old formula), form traditional soap.
  • Synthetic Surfactants: Ingredients like Sodium Laureth Sulfate (in the old formula), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Threoninate, TEA Cocoyl Glutamate, Arginine Cocoate, and Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate are synthetic cleansing agents. These can be milder than traditional soap and are effective at lifting and emulsifying oils and dirt.
  • Oils and Emollients: Ingredients like Rice Bran Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Dimethicone peg7 isostearate, Lanolin, Ceramide, Phytosphingosine, and Cholesterol can help to dissolve makeup and condition the skin, preventing excessive dryness from cleansing.

The combination of these ingredients allows the soap to effectively break down and wash away makeup.

Are the Ingredients Harmful?

The ingredients listed are commonly used in cosmetic products and are generally considered safe for use in rinse-off formulations like soap. The effectiveness in removing makeup is due to the cleansing power of the surfactants and the makeup-dissolving properties of the oils/emollients, not necessarily due to harmful substances.

  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS), present in the old formula, is a strong surfactant that can be drying for some, but it is widely used and considered safe in wash-off products.
  • Many of the other surfactants listed, particularly the amino acid-based ones (Glutamates, Glycinates, Arginine Cocoate) and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, are often chosen for their mildness.

The formulation appears to use a mix of cleansing agents to achieve effective makeup removal while potentially including conditioning agents to minimize irritation.

Can You Make It Yourself?

As the reply you received indicated, replicating the exact solid bar form of this soap is challenging for home crafters. This is because:

  1. It is likely not made using traditional cold-process or melt-and-pour soap methods, which typically result in a high pH. The described soap has a skin-friendly pH of 5.5.
  2. Achieving the solid bar form with this type of low-pH formulation often requires specialized ingredients and high-pressure pressing machinery, which is not available for home use.

However, you can definitely create a similar product in a different format, such as a liquid or cream cleanser, that is effective at removing makeup. Many ingredients used in the bar formula, like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, various oils (Rice Bran Oil, Olive Fruit Oil), Glycerin, and emollients, can be used to formulate a liquid or cream makeup remover cleanser at home.

To do this, you would need to research formulations for liquid or cream cleansers designed for makeup removal and source the appropriate ingredients.