Making a High-Concentration Fractionated Coconut Oil Gel
Question
I want to make a cosmetic product that is a clear, non-greasy gel with approximately 90-100 percent Fractionated Coconut Oil.
- Which gelling agents can be used?
- If water needs to be an ingredient to make it a gel, will it become rancid? Do other ingredients need to be added?
- Are there gelling agents that don't require heating the Fractionated Coconut Oil? (I read that the oil needs to be heated to 70-80°C, and I'm concerned that Vitamin E in the Fractionated Coconut Oil will be lost...)
Thank you very much.
Answer
Creating a Fractionated Coconut Oil Gel
To create a clear, non-greasy gel with a high concentration (90-100%) of Fractionated Coconut Oil, you will need a suitable oil gelling agent.
1. Suitable Gelling Agents
Based on your requirements for a clear gel with high oil content, the following gelling agents can be considered:
- Oil Thick™ Transparent: This agent is specifically designed to create a clear, high-viscosity oil gel texture and works with various oils, including emollients like Fractionated Coconut Oil. However, it typically requires heating the oil to around 90°C for the powder to dissolve completely.
- Oil-Fix™ O and Oil-Fix™ Eco: These are silica-based gelling agents that disperse in oil. While they can thicken oils and may help reduce greasiness, achieving a perfectly clear gel at very high oil concentrations might be less guaranteed compared to Oil Thick™ Transparent. They are dispersed rather than dissolved by heating, which might allow for processing at lower temperatures, although heating often helps with dispersion and gelling efficiency.
Sugar Gel is not suitable for a formula with 90-100% oil because its gelling mechanism requires approximately 10% water in the formula.
2. Adding Water and Rancidity
Fractionated Coconut Oil is known for its excellent stability and resistance to rancidity due to its composition of medium-chain triglycerides. It is described as having longevity and being resistant to going rancid.
If you were to include water in the formula (which is not possible with a 90-100% oil concentration using the suitable gelling agents mentioned above), it would introduce a risk of microbial growth. In that case, a preservative would be necessary to maintain the product's safety and shelf life. While Fractionated Coconut Oil is very stable against oxidation, adding water could potentially, over a very long period, slightly increase the risk of degradation, although this is less of a concern compared to less stable oils. For a high-oil formula, rancidity is generally not a significant issue with Fractionated Coconut Oil itself.
3. Gelling Agents Without High Heat
The concern about high heat degrading Vitamin E is valid. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate), while stable, is best added after the heating phase if high temperatures are required for other ingredients.
- Oil Thick™ Transparent requires heating the oil to around 90°C.
- Oil-Fix™ O and Oil-Fix™ Eco are dispersed in oil. While heating can improve dispersion and gelling, it might be possible to achieve some thickening by dispersing them at room temperature with sufficient mixing, thus potentially avoiding high heat exposure for added Vitamin E. However, the resulting gel texture and clarity might differ compared to using heat.
If avoiding high heat is a priority, exploring the dispersion of Oil-Fix™ O or Oil-Fix™ Eco at lower temperatures with high shear mixing could be an option, though testing would be needed to confirm the desired gel texture and clarity. If a clear gel is the absolute priority, Oil Thick™ Transparent is the most likely candidate, and Vitamin E or other heat-sensitive ingredients should be added after the heating and gelling process is complete and the mixture has cooled down. Fractionated Coconut Oil itself is stable at the temperatures required for gelling agents like Oil Thick™ Transparent.
In summary, for a clear, non-greasy gel with 90-100% Fractionated Coconut Oil, Oil Thick™ Transparent is a strong candidate, requiring heat. Oil-Fix™ O or Oil-Fix™ Eco could potentially be used with less heat by dispersion, but clarity may vary. Fractionated Coconut Oil is highly stable, and adding water is not feasible for a 90-100% oil gel. Add heat-sensitive ingredients like Vitamin E after the heating phase if using a gelling agent that requires high temperatures.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Fractionated Coconut Oil