Answer to the question about making lip balm with 5% water

Thank you very much for your compliment. We are happy to help.

The issue you are facing regarding mixing 5% water with the main ingredients of waxes and oils in lip balm is common. Since water and oil do not naturally mix, creating a stable emulsion requires the use of an emulsifier.

Let's look at each point you asked about:

1. Would it work to mix Stearyl Alcohol with the water phase, and then dissolve it into the oil phase?
   Stearyl Alcohol is a Fatty Alcohol often used as a thickener, emollient, and co-emulsifier (a substance that helps enhance the function of the primary emulsifier). However, it is not a Primary Emulsifier that can make water and oil mix stably on its own. Mixing Stearyl Alcohol with water first and then adding it to the oil/wax might help with initial dispersion, but it will not create a stable emulsion in the long run. The water will eventually separate.

2. Is it suitable to use an Emulsifying Agent with a low HLB? Which one should be used for lip balm?
   That is correct! Making a lip balm with a small amount of water (e.g., 5%) where the main components are oils and waxes is typically a Water-in-Oil (W/O) Emulsion system. This means that the water (Water phase) is dispersed as small droplets within the oil phase (Oil phase), which is the continuous phase. Creating a W/O Emulsion requires emulsifiers with a low HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value (generally in the range of 3-6) to help water disperse well in oil.

   Based on the product information found, there are two interesting Emulsifying Agents suitable for making lip balm with water in a Water-in-Oil (W/O) system:

   • OccluSoft™ (Water-in-Oil Cationic Emulsifier): This is specifically a Water-in-Oil emulsifier. Its key feature is being a Cationic Emulsifier which helps the skin feel soft and smooth after drying, unlike typical W/O emulsifiers that can feel heavy and sticky. It is easy to use by mixing it into the oil phase first, then gradually adding the water phase little by little while mixing.
   • Emulsifying Beeswax (Non-Ionic, Natural): This is a natural emulsifier (100% natural ingredients). It acts as both an emulsifier and a thickener. It is suitable for Balm or Ointment formulas, which fits the nature of your lip balm. It is mixed by dissolving it in the oil phase.

   Both of these are good options for creating a W/O Emulsion in your lip balm.

3. If I don't use an Emulsifying Agent but use the same principle, which is to wait to add water in the final step when the temperature is low and the mixture is thick, then stir to disperse the water into small particles, would that work?
   This method is similar to attempting to create a temporary dispersion of water in oil. While the mixture is hot and liquid, mixing will help disperse the water to some extent. However, as the mixture cools and thickens, the dispersion of water will not be stable and is likely to separate over time. Creating a stable emulsion requires using the appropriate emulsifier and the correct manufacturing process (such as heating both phases, mixing at the appropriate speed) to reduce the surface tension between water and oil and create a structure that can hold the water droplets stably.

Conclusion: The most suitable method is to use an Emulsifying Agent with a low HLB. OccluSoft™ (Water-in-Oil Cationic Emulsifier) and Emulsifying Beeswax (Non-Ionic, Natural) are two interesting options for your lip balm formula.

Additional recommendations for the manufacturing process:

For making a W/O Emulsion in general:

• Separate the ingredients into two phases: Oil Phase and Water Phase.
• Dissolve the ingredients in each phase, usually by heating both phases (around 70-80°C or according to the emulsifier manufacturer's instructions).
• Once both phases are heated and well mixed, gradually pour the water phase into the oil phase little by little while continuously mixing with a suitable mixer (e.g., a hand blender or a mixer with an impeller) at an appropriate speed.
• Continue mixing until the mixture starts to thicken and cools down to the desired lip balm consistency.

Using the appropriate Emulsifying Agent and following the W/O Emulsion mixing process will help you achieve a stable lip balm with 5% water that does not separate.