Making a Volufiline Serum with a Single Active

Question

Can Volufiline be mixed with pro 0.1% and used right away, or does it need to be mixed with something else?

I’m making a serum. I’ll use it on nasolabial folds, under eyes, and breasts. I want something like ordinary, or what can it be mixed with and then used? I want this extract to be the only active.

Answer 1

If you mean Pure-Sarsasapogenin™ (Lipo-Filling, e.q. Volufiline), it should not be used directly on skin as powder and should not be simply mixed into water/clear gel. It is highly lipophilic, so it should be carried in an oil/oil-gel or an emulsion base that can hold oil.

Recommended use level: 0.01% in the finished product. Please do not use 0.1% if this is the pure active grade, because the catalog recommendation is fixed at 0.01%.

Best “The Ordinary-style” simple active-only serum

Use an anhydrous oil serum: the only active is Pure-Sarsasapogenin; the rest is carrier.

Option A: light oil serum

Pure-Sarsasapogenin™: 0.01%
Squalane or Squalane (Olive): 99.99%

Option B: slightly richer/slip oil serum

Pure-Sarsasapogenin™: 0.01%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 99.99%

Option C: less runny oil-gel texture

Pure-Sarsasapogenin™: 0.01%
Squalane Oil Gel (Thixotropic): 99.99%

Practical mixing tip

Because 0.01% is very small, make a premix first for easier weighing. Example: make a 1% premix of Pure-Sarsasapogenin in Squalane or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mix until fully uniform, then use 1% of this premix in the final serum and top up the carrier to 100%. Warm gently if needed and mix until there are no visible particles, especially for under-eye use.

If you want a water/silicone serum texture instead

Use Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil) because it can hold oil. In that case the formula must also contain water and preservative, so it is no longer just active + oil carrier. Keep the active at 0.01% and follow the base’s mixing instructions: mix the oil phase with the base first, then add the water phase slowly while stirring/blending.

Application guidance

Apply only on targeted volume-deficit areas such as nasolabial fold, under-eye hollow, or breast area. For under-eye, use very little and avoid the lash line/inside the eye. Avoid over-application on sagging lower-face areas because too much lipofilling effect may make puffiness/heaviness more noticeable. Patch test first.