Making Alcohol-Free Perfume/Body Mist: Mixing Oil and Water, Solubilizers, Fixatives, and Formulation

Asked by: khwonlert On: February 04, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I'm trying to make an alcohol-free perfume using fragrance oil (or essential oil) and water. I've added Fixative to help the scent last longer.

The main problem is that the oil and water separate. I tried filtering with coffee grounds, but the oil doesn't pass through, which affects the skin nourishing property of the body mist.

I need advice on how to mix the oil and water. Specifically:

  • What ingredient acts as a solubilizer to combine oil and water?
  • What is the appropriate usage amount for this solubilizer?
  • Will the solubilizer cause skin irritation, especially since I want to use it as a body mist?
  • Could you recommend which Fixative is better?
  • For a perfume formula with 20% essential oil, how should I measure the essential oil amount? (e.g., how many drops?)

Thank you for your guidance.

Answer

Understanding How to Mix Oil and Water in Alcohol-Free Formulations

To create a stable mixture of oil (like fragrance or essential oils) and water without using alcohol, you need an ingredient called a solubilizer. Solubilizers help to disperse the oil evenly throughout the water phase, preventing separation.

Based on your needs, several solubilizers can be used:

  • Flora Solve™ Clear (Fragrance Solubilizer): This is specifically designed for mixing fragrance and essential oils with water. It is colorless and odorless, which helps maintain the true scent of your fragrance. It is typically used at a ratio of 2-5 parts Flora Solve™ Clear to 1 part fragrance or essential oil.
  • Ultra Solve™: This is a high-performance solubilizer that can dissolve a wider range of oils, including essential oils and fragrance oils. It is generally used at a rate of 1-10% of the total formula.
  • Free Solve™ (PEG-Free Solubilizer): If you prefer a PEG-free option, Free Solve™ is a good choice. It is also effective at dissolving oils in water and is described as gentle on the skin. The recommended usage rate is 1-10%.
  • PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30: This is another solubilizer option, typically used at 1-5%.

How to Use a Solubilizer:

The general method is to first mix your fragrance or essential oil thoroughly with the chosen solubilizer. Once they are well combined, gradually add this mixture to your water phase while stirring continuously until everything is fully dispersed and clear.

Usage Amount and Irritation:

The exact amount of solubilizer needed depends on the specific solubilizer you choose and the amount and type of oil you are trying to dissolve. It is best to start with the recommended usage ratio or percentage provided for the product and adjust as needed to achieve clarity and stability. Free Solve™ is noted as being gentle on the skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before using the full product, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Fixatives:

Fixatives are ingredients that help to reduce the evaporation rate of fragrance components, making the scent last longer. The effectiveness of a fixative can depend on the specific fragrance materials used in your formula. Without knowing which fixatives you are comparing, it is difficult to say which one is "better".

Perfume Formula (20% Essential Oil):

A 20% essential oil concentration means that 20% of your final product by weight or volume is essential oil. Using drops is not a precise way to measure for formulations as drop size can vary significantly. To achieve a 20% concentration, you would measure 20 units (grams or milliliters) of essential oil and combine it with 80 units of your base (water + solubilizer). The amount of solubilizer in the base would be determined by the ratio needed to dissolve the 20 units of essential oil, based on the solubilizer's recommendations (e.g., 2-5 parts solubilizer per 1 part essential oil).

By using a suitable solubilizer and following the correct mixing method, you should be able to create a stable, alcohol-free body mist or perfume where the oil and water phases do not separate.