Matte Lipstick Formula Resulting in Creamy Texture: Analysis and Recommendations

Hello! I understand you're experimenting with making a matte lipstick and the resulting texture is not as expected (feels like skin cream, not matte, not long-lasting, easily wiped off). The main reason for this outcome likely stems from the proportions of the ingredients in your formula.

Generally, a matte lipstick that is long-lasting and provides a good matte finish requires a sufficiently high proportion of structuring agents (like Waxes, Gellants), film formers, and mattifiers/fillers. These components build a strong structure and a durable film on the lips. Conversely, the proportion of oils or emollients, which provide softness and glide, must be balanced appropriately to prevent the lipstick from being too soft, which would compromise the matte finish and longevity.

Based on the formula you provided, the combined percentage of emollients/oils is quite high (e.g., LipidSoft 35%, Fractionated Coconut Oil 5%, Squalene 2%), totaling approximately 42%. This high amount is significant for a matte lipstick and likely contributes to the creamy, skin-cream-like texture you observed.

Regarding the structuring agents, film formers, and mattifiers (Natural White Beeswax 5.5%, Hectorite Oil Gel 5.5%, Oil Film (Long-Wear) 5%, Silicone Blender 4%, Oil Fix 3%, MatteSilica 2%, Silk Mica Powder 15%, Silk Talc Powder 5%), although several types are included, their combined quantity might not be sufficient to counteract the softness from the high emollient content.

• Natural White Beeswax at 5.5% helps structure the formula, but Beeswax is relatively soft compared to other waxes with higher melting points. Using only Beeswax at 5.5% might not be enough to create a sufficiently firm and stable lipstick structure for a good matte and long-lasting finish. The product description for Natural White Beeswax itself suggests using it with harder waxes for lipstick applications.
• Hectorite Oil Gel (LipidSoft Base) acts as a gelling agent for the oil phase and helps suspend powders, which is beneficial in this formula.
• Oil Film (Long-Wear) and Silicone Blender are film formers and compatibility agents for silicones and oils. They are good ingredients for enhancing longevity, but at 5% and 4%, their amounts might not be enough to form a strong film that provides significant wear resistance when a high amount of emollients is present.
• MatteSilica, Silk Mica Powder, and Silk Talc Powder are powders that help absorb oil and provide a matte finish and filling effect. Their combined percentage (22%) is quite high, which is good for mattifying. However, without sufficient film formers or binders, these powders might not adhere well to the lips, resulting in a less matte feel and easy rub-off.
• SiliSolve Plus functions as a binder for water, oil, and silicone phases, likely helping to disperse pigments and powders in this oil/silicone-based formula.
• Oil Fix (likely Oil-Fix™ O or W) helps stabilize the formula and can contribute to longevity/water resistance. However, 3% might not be enough to compensate for the high emollient load.

In summary, the issue likely stems from the high proportion of emollients, leading to a creamy texture and insufficient matte and long-wearing properties. Adjusting the ratio by reducing emollients and/or increasing harder waxes (like Microcrystalline Wax, Carnauba Wax) or more potent film formers could help achieve the desired matte lipstick characteristics.

However, as the MySkinRecipes team has already indicated they will test and adjust the formula, their findings will provide the most precise solution based on the specific properties of the ingredients used. It is best to await their results.