Mattifying a Clear Water-Based Gel Serum

To achieve a matte finish in a water-based gel serum while maintaining clarity, it is important to understand the difference between biological oil control and cosmetic mattifying.

1. Why AminoMatte™ didn't provide the expected effect

AminoMatte™ (Sarcosine) is a functional active ingredient. It works biologically by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha reductase to reduce sebum production over time. It is completely water-soluble and maintains perfect clarity, but it does not contain physical particles to scatter light, which is why it does not provide an "instant" matte or blurring look upon application.

2. The Challenge of Clarity vs. Mattifying

In cosmetic chemistry, an "instant matte" or "blurring" effect is achieved by adding spherical particles (like Silica or PMMA) that scatter light. Because these particles have a different refractive index than water, they will naturally make a clear gel appear cloudy, milky, or opaque. It is physically difficult to have a 100% crystal-clear water gel that also provides a strong instant matte effect.

3. Recommended Solutions

If you are using AnyGel™ as your base (which is already excellent for a non-greasy, fast-absorbing feel), you can consider the following additives to reduce shine:

• QuikBlur™ (Polymethylsilsesquioxane Solution): This is the most suitable option for a serum. It is a liquid form of silicone resin microspheres that can be easily dispersed in water.

  • Effect: Provides an instant "soft-focus" or blurring effect to hide pores and reduce gloss.
  • Clarity: It is a milky liquid. Adding it to your serum will turn the clear gel into a translucent or "milky" serum, but it will not be as heavy or "chalky" as adding pure powders.
  • Usage: 1-5%, added in the final step.

• UltraBlur™ (Skin Blurring Silica): If your priority is a high-performance matte look and oil absorption over perfect clarity.

  • Effect: This is a specialized silica designed for maximum blurring. It will significantly eliminate shine and provide a very smooth skin feel.
  • Clarity: It will make the gel opaque (white/cloudy).
  • Usage: 1-5%, dispersed into the water phase or added at the end.

Summary Recommendation

To keep the serum as clear as possible while reducing shine:

1. Continue using AminoMatte™ at 1-3% for long-term oil reduction.
2. Add QuikBlur™ at a low percentage (e.g., 1-2%). This will provide a cosmetic blurring effect with the least amount of opacity compared to other powders.
3. Ensure your AnyGel™ concentration is not too high (stay around 1-1.5%), as thicker films of any gelling agent can sometimes increase surface gloss.