Melasma Treatment Formula for Oily Skin: Thickener and Solubility Questions

ถามโดย: vegas.mink เมื่อ: December 05, 2014 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Based on the provided formulation for a melasma treatment for oily skin, I have the following questions regarding the ingredients and mixing process:

My proposed formula includes:

  • Water
  • N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine 4%
  • Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • Glycerin 3%
  • Niacinamide 2%
  • 4-butyl Resorcinol 2%
  • LipidSoft (percentage needed?)
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

My understanding is that I should first mix the water-soluble ingredients (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8).

For the 4-butyl Resorcinol (6), I plan to use LipidSoft (7) as a solvent. What percentage of LipidSoft should I use?

What kind of thickener should I use to combine the water phase and the oil phase? I want a light, non-comedogenic texture.

Could you please analyze this formula?

คำตอบ

Melasma Treatment Formula for Oily Skin

Here is a suggested formula and mixing method for a light, non-greasy melasma treatment suitable for oily skin, using the ingredients you provided:

Formula:

  • Water: 79%
  • N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine: 4%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3%
  • Glycerin: 3%
  • Niacinamide: 2%
  • 4-butyl Resorcinol: 2%
  • LipidSoft: 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
  • Light Cream Maker™: 1.5%

Total: 100%

Analysis and Recommendations:

Your chosen active ingredients (N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, and 4-butyl Resorcinol) are excellent for targeting melasma and hyperpigmentation. The percentages you selected are within recommended usage rates for cosmetic products.

  1. Mixing Phases: Your understanding of separating into water and oil phases is correct. The water-soluble ingredients (N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, and Water) form the water phase. The oil-soluble ingredient (4-butyl Resorcinol) needs to be dissolved in an oil phase, such as LipidSoft.

  2. LipidSoft Percentage for 4-butyl Resorcinol: 4-butyl Resorcinol is soluble in oil. Using 5% LipidSoft should be sufficient to dissolve 2% 4-butyl Resorcinol and provide a light feel suitable for oily skin. LipidSoft also acts as an emollient, helping with spreadability.

  3. Thickener for Light Texture: To achieve a light, non-greasy texture suitable for oily skin and to emulsify the oil and water phases, an emulsifying thickener is recommended. Light Cream Maker™ is a suitable choice as it functions as both an emulsifier and thickener, works without heat, and helps create a light, smooth texture. A usage rate of 1.5% is suggested for a light cream consistency.

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: In a container, combine Water, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Niacinamide, and Phenoxyethanol. Stir or mix until all powder ingredients are completely dissolved.
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate container, combine LipidSoft and 4-butyl Resorcinol. Stir until the 4-butyl Resorcinol powder is fully dissolved in the LipidSoft.
  3. Add Light Cream Maker™ to the Oil Phase and mix well to ensure it is dispersed.
  4. Combine Phases: Gradually add the Oil Phase (containing LipidSoft, 4-butyl Resorcinol, and Light Cream Maker™) to the Water Phase while continuously stirring or blending. Continue mixing until a uniform, light cream texture is formed.

Remember to store the finished product properly, away from light and heat, as Activated Resorcinol is light-sensitive.

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