Melasma Treatment Formula Issues: Irritation and Stability

Based on the conversation regarding creating a formula for melasma treatment, the staff has provided valuable feedback on the proposed formula.

The proposed formula contains a high concentration of multiple active ingredients known for exfoliation and whitening properties, such as Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Azelaic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Activated Resorcinol, and MSH-white. The staff noted that combining these potent ingredients at these levels is likely the cause of the redness and irritation experienced. Using too many strong actives simultaneously does not necessarily lead to faster or better results and can significantly damage the skin barrier, making the skin more sensitive and prone to issues.

Furthermore, the staff pointed out that the high electrolyte content from ingredients like Sodium Lactate and Azelaic Acid makes it challenging to create a stable formula using the initially chosen emulsifier (Satin Mousse). Alternative emulsifiers like Water-in-Oil EZ, Butter Cream Maker, SiliSolve Plus, or Silky Serum Base Plus would be necessary, and these require proper mixing equipment.

Given that your skin experienced redness and irritation, the most important step now is to focus on skin recovery and strengthening the skin barrier, as advised by the staff. Please discontinue the use of the irritating formula. During this recovery phase, prioritize:

• Using gentle, moisturizing products to soothe and hydrate your skin.
• Consistent and effective sun protection to prevent further damage and worsening of melasma.
• Avoiding sun exposure as much as possible.

Aggressive treatments aimed at exfoliation or strong whitening should be avoided until your skin has fully healed and is no longer sensitive. Once your skin barrier is healthy and strong again, you can explore melasma treatments with a gentler approach. This might involve starting with one or two well-tolerated active ingredients at lower concentrations, gradually increasing strength or adding other actives as your skin tolerates them.

Focusing on healing your skin now will create a better foundation for future melasma treatment and help prevent long-term skin damage.