Melasma Treatment Formulation with Tranexamic Acid

It is possible to create a formulation for treating melasma using Tranexamic Acid, distilled water, and Phenoxyethanol.

Your proposed formula:

• Tranexamic Acid 4%
• Distilled water 95.2%
• Phenoxyethanol 0.8%

Regarding the concentration of Tranexamic Acid, for cosmetic purposes, the recommended maximum usage rate is typically up to 3%. Using concentrations higher than 3% may require registration as a medicine and could potentially cause skin irritation. There is also a Nano Emulsion form of Tranexamic Acid available which is designed for better penetration.

The suggested addition of Phenoxyethanol at 0.8% is suitable for preservation.

To improve the texture and absorption of the formula, as suggested, you can modify the base. Instead of using plain distilled water, consider these options:

• Using a Gel Maker: Adding a small amount of a gel-forming polymer like Pro Polymer (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) at around 0.3% can create a light serum texture that is easier to apply and may absorb better than a simple water solution.
• Using a Carrier/Solvent: While Ethoxydiglycol can act as a carrier to improve penetration, the suggested usage rate of 15-20% is much higher than the recommended maximum for leave-on cosmetic products (typically not exceeding 2.6%). Using high concentrations can cause irritation. Alcohol can also aid penetration but may be drying.

Applying the solution with a cotton pad to the affected area is a possible method.

Crucially, when treating melasma, consistent sun protection is essential. UV exposure is a major trigger for melasma. Ensure you are using adequate sun protection daily, even when not exposed to direct sunlight, to prevent the condition from worsening.