Analysis of Your Micellar Cleansing Formula

Thank you for providing details about your micellar cleansing tester formula and the feedback you received. It's concerning that both you and your family experienced slight stinging and itching upon use.

Based on the ingredients you mentioned (Aloe Vera, Centella, Willow Bark, Micellar, no added surfactant, no fragrance, no alcohol), here's an analysis of potential causes for the irritation:

• Micellar Agent: While you didn't add traditional surfactants, micellar agents like MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) are themselves a type of surfactant that forms micelles to cleanse. The concentration and specific type of micellar agent used can significantly impact skin irritation. Even gentle micellar solutions can cause stinging in some individuals, especially if the concentration is too high or if the skin barrier is compromised.
• Willow Bark Extract: This extract contains natural salicylates, which are related to Salicylic Acid. Salicylic Acid is known for its exfoliating properties and can cause irritation, particularly at higher concentrations or on sensitive skin. The Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) product description indicates it's used for exfoliation and dissolving acne breakouts, effects that can sometimes lead to stinging or tingling sensations.
• Combination of Ingredients: The interaction between the micellar agent and the Willow Bark Extract might increase the potential for irritation compared to using either ingredient alone.
• pH Level: The pH of the final formula is crucial for skin compatibility. If the pH is too low or too high, it can cause stinging and discomfort. Willow Bark Extract works best within a specific pH range (4.0-6.5), and the final formula's pH needs to be balanced for overall skin gentleness.
• Ingredient Quality and Concentration: As mentioned by the staff, the quality and exact concentration of each ingredient, especially if sourced from different suppliers, can influence the final product's mildness.

Should You Sell This Formula?

Given that multiple users experienced stinging and itching, it is strongly recommended not to sell this formula in its current state. A product intended for cleansing, especially makeup removal, should be gentle and non-irritating for most users.

How to Improve the Formula

To create a gentle and effective cleansing water, consider the following adjustments:

1. Review Concentrations: Carefully examine the percentage of both the micellar agent and the Willow Bark Extract. Reducing the concentration of one or both may help decrease irritation.
2. Choose a Milder Micellar Agent: Consider using an ultra-mild micellar agent specifically designed for sensitive skin, such as Encapsulated Micellar Cleansing Water (e.q. Bioderma) (10:1), which is formulated for very low eye and skin irritation.
3. Adjust pH: Measure and adjust the final pH of your formula to be skin-compatible, ideally around pH 5.5. Ensure it is also within the effective range for your ingredients.
4. Enhance Soothing Properties: While Aloe Vera Extract and Centella Extract (like Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) or ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica) are good additions, ensure they are used at effective concentrations. You might also consider adding other soothing ingredients.
5. Thorough Testing: After reformulation, conduct extensive testing on individuals with varying skin types, including sensitive skin, to ensure the product is truly gentle and non-irritating.

Suggested Gentle Cleansing Water Formula Concept

For a gentle yet effective cleansing water, you could consider a formula based on:

• Encapsulated Micellar Cleansing Water (e.q. Bioderma) (10:1): This provides the primary cleansing action with minimal irritation potential. Follow the recommended usage rate (10% concentrate mixed 1:10 with water for a 1% final concentration).
• Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™): Include at a soothing concentration (e.g., 3-5%).
• ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica (Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside): Add at its recommended usage rate (e.g., 1%) for enhanced anti-inflammatory and skin barrier benefits.
• Humectant: Include a humectant like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol (5-10%) to help keep the skin hydrated.
• Purified Water: Add to 100%.

Remember to follow the specific mixing instructions for each ingredient, especially the Encapsulated Micellar Cleansing Water. This conceptual formula provides a starting point for developing a gentle and effective cleansing product.