Mixing AHA into Cream: Stability Issues and Solutions

Asked by: nokatan5 On: July 05, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can AHA (such as Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid) be mixed directly into a cream base? What potential stability issues might arise, particularly when added at concentrations above 1%, and how can these issues be addressed, for example, by using a thickener like Pro Polymer and adjusting pH?

Answer

Mixing AHA into Cream

Yes, you can mix AHA directly into your cream base. Creams typically contain enough water for the AHA to dissolve.

However, the acidic nature of AHAs, such as Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid, can often destabilize the cream's texture, potentially causing it to thin out or separate, especially when added at concentrations above 1%.

To help maintain the cream's stability when adding AHA, you can use a thickener like Pro Polymer. Adding about 0.5-1.0% of Pro Polymer can help restore the texture. If you add a higher concentration of AHA, you might need to use more Pro Polymer.

Keep in mind that thickeners and emulsifiers, including Pro Polymer, have a specific pH range where they are stable. Pro Polymer is stable at pH 2 and above. If adding a large amount of AHA lowers the formula's pH below the thickener's tolerance, the cream may still become unstable. In such cases, you might need to slightly increase the pH by adding a small amount of a base.