Mixing Cosmetic Formula with Electrolytes: Using Xanthan Gum for Gel Texture

Asked by: bf.vrata On: August 09, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I currently have dry, dehydrated skin with significantly reduced rash but still experiencing peeling. I'm using a facial cleanser recommended by the staff.

I have a specific formula I want to mix, but I cannot use Light Cream Maker because it is incompatible with the electrolytes in some of the ingredients. How can I mix this specific formula to achieve a suitable texture?

My formula is:

  • Moisturizing:
    • NMAA 5%
    • Sodium lactate plus 5%
    • Beta glucan 10%
    • B5 5%
    • Natural betain 5%
    • Glycerin 3%
    • PG 2% (to make it feel smoother when applied)
  • Acne:
    • Azelaic acid 10% (My skin is dry, but I still have acne and acne scars, so I chose this)
    • Green Tea 5%
  • Anti-irritating:
    • Allantoin 0.5%
    • Calendula 5%

Answer

Based on the reply from cosmeceutical7, since Light Cream Maker is not compatible with the electrolytes in your chosen ingredients (NMAA, Sodium Lactate Plus), the suggested method to create a gel texture for your specific formula is to use a natural organic thickener like xanthan gum.

Here's how you can mix your formula according to the staff's suggestion:

  1. Combine all the ingredients in your formula:
    • Moisturizing: NMAA 5%, Sodium lactate plus 5%, Beta glucan 10%, B5 5%, Natural betain 5%, Glycerin 3%, PG 2%
    • Acne: Azelaic acid 10%, Green Tea 5%
    • Anti-irritating: Allantoin 0.5%, Calendula 5%
  2. Once all ingredients are mixed, add natural organic thickener/xanthan gum. The staff suggests starting at 1.5%.
  3. Mix or shake the mixture for a while until the xanthan gum dissolves and creates a gel texture.
  4. The staff notes that if you use too little thickener, the gel might be too liquid, and Beta glucan might settle. If you prefer a thinner texture, this is acceptable; just shake before use.
  5. Keep in mind that using a thickener like xanthan gum instead of an emulsifier means you cannot add oil components to this formula.
  6. The staff also mentioned that with this many ingredients, the texture might feel slightly sticky, but this can be beneficial for very dry skin as it helps retain moisture.

The staff also mentioned an alternative option: modifying your formula by removing NMAA and Sodium Lactate Plus and adding Urea 5%, Vitamin E, and Bisabolol to make it compatible with Light Cream Maker and achieve a cream texture. However, the detailed mixing instructions provided were for the xanthan gum method with your current ingredient list.

Let me know if you have more questions about this or the alternative method!

Tags

Compatibility Electrolyte Tolerance Gel Gelling Agent Mixing Procedure