Mixing Instructions for Anti-Aging, Brightening Serum with DMAE and High Electrolytes

Hello! Thank you for your interest in this formula for combination skin targeting whitening and anti-aging.

Regarding your question about PE-1 Aqua and Centella Asiatica Extract, the staff's advice is correct. Using PE-1 Aqua together with Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 7.7%) may reduce the absorption of the Centella Asiatica Extract. The staff recommends omitting one of them. You mentioned you prefer to keep Centella, so omitting PE-1 Aqua would be the way to go based on the staff's information. However, the formula you posted includes both, and the staff's mixing instructions incorporate both. The staff's instructions seem to be based on the original formula you posted, including both PE-1 Aqua and Centella.

The staff also highlighted that this formula is complex to mix, especially for beginners, due to the presence of DMAE. DMAE is a high-electrolyte ingredient which requires significantly more thickener than usual and makes hand-mixing difficult, often resulting in lumps.

Here are the mixing steps provided by the staff for the formula you posted (including both PE-1 Aqua and Centella, and DMAE):

Ingredients:

• Pep-Coll (SYN-COLL / Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 5%
• Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 10%
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 7.7%) 2%
• Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) 5%
• Pro-Niacin (Myristyl Nicotinate) 3%
• DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid (Dimethylaminoethanol) 10%
• Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
• Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) 5%
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol / Pro-Vitamin B5) 3%
• Satin Mousse (Silky Cream Maker) 2%
• Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) 0.5%
• Glycerin 5%
• PE-1 Aqua 3%
• Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1 %
• Distilled Water (remaining amount to make 100%)

Mixing Instructions:

1. Water Phase: Combine Pep-Coll 5%, Repair Activator 10%, Argireline 5%, Pro-Niacin 3%, Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%, Safe-B3 5%, Vitamin B5 3%, Glycerin 5%, and the remaining amount of Distilled Water. Mix well.
2. Add Satin Mousse 1.2% to the water phase. Mix or blend until a gel consistency is achieved.
3. Oil Phase: In a separate container, combine PE-1 Aqua 3% and Centella Asiatica Extract 2%. Mix well.
4. Add the oil phase mixture from step 3 into the water phase gel from step 2. Mix until a cream consistency is achieved.
5. Adding DMAE and Thickeners: This is the most complex step.
   • Separate the total DMAE (10%) into 5 portions of 2% each.
   • Separate the remaining Satin Mousse (0.8%) into 4 portions of 0.2% each.
   • Gradually add the first 2% portion of DMAE to the cream mixture. The cream will likely become thinner.
   • Immediately add the first 0.2% portion of Satin Mousse and mix well to thicken the cream again.
   • Repeat the process: add the next 2% portion of DMAE, mix, then add the next 0.2% portion of Satin Mousse, mix well. Do this for the first four 2% portions of DMAE and the four 0.2% portions of Satin Mousse.
   • After adding the fourth portion of DMAE and the fourth portion of Satin Mousse, add the final 2% portion of DMAE.
   • Gradually add the Pro Polymer 0.5% to the mixture, mixing very well after each small addition (e.g., divide into two 0.25% portions). Continue mixing until the desired texture is achieved.
6. Finally, add the preservative, Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1%, and mix thoroughly.

Important Note from Staff: As the staff mentioned, mixing this formula, especially with DMAE, is challenging and may require blending equipment to achieve a smooth consistency. If you are new to formulating or do not have blending equipment, it is strongly recommended to omit DMAE from the formula. This will make the mixing process much simpler.

Please let me know if you have any other questions!