Mixing Licorice Extract into Cosmetic Formulas: Compatibility and Methods

Question

How can I mix licorice extract into my cosmetic product? What types of licorice extract are available, and how do their solubility properties affect the mixing procedure depending on the formula base (water-based, oil-based, or requiring glycols/ethanol)? Specifically, please provide guidance on:

Mixing water-soluble licorice extracts (e.g., Licochalcone A 1%, Glabridin 4.5%, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate).
Mixing glycol/ethanol-soluble licorice extracts (e.g., Pure-Glabridin™ 90%, Hi-Glabridin™ 40%, Hi-LiconeA™ 20%), including recommended solvents and temperatures.
Mixing oil-soluble licorice extract (e.g., Glycyrrhizic acid) and optimal temperature for dissolution.

I need to understand the compatibility and correct method for adding different forms of licorice extract to ensure they integrate properly into my formula.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Information on Mixing Licorice Extract

Licorice extract is available in various forms, each with different properties and mixing requirements. To determine if it can be added to your product, you need to consider the specific type of licorice extract and the base formula you are using.

Here are some common types and their mixing instructions:

Water-Soluble Types: Products like Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble), Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble), and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate can be mixed directly into the water phase of your formula. For the Glabridin 4.5% type, avoid heat and add in the last step if the formula involves heating. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate can withstand heat up to 80°C.
Glycol/Ethanol Soluble Types: Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) and Hi-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%) need to be dissolved in Butylene Glycol or Ethanol first. Use an amount of solvent at least 10 times the amount of Glabridin. Heat up to 60°C can help dissolution. Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%) can be dissolved in Propylene Glycol or any Glycol.
Oil-Soluble Type: Glycyrrhizic acid (Oil Soluble Licorice Extract) should be mixed into the oil phase. It can melt at room temperature, but heating to 40-50°C will help it dissolve faster.

Therefore, you can mix licorice extract into your product, but the method depends entirely on which specific licorice extract you choose and whether its solubility is compatible with your formula base (water-based, oil-based, or requiring glycols/ethanol).