How to Make 10% AHA Cream with Glycolic Acid

You're looking to make a 10% AHA cream using Glycolic Acid, Butter Cream Maker, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Phenoxyethanol SA, and water, and you've noticed conflicting temperature instructions for Glycolic Acid and Butter Cream Maker.

It's correct that Glycolic Acid should not be heated above 60°C to prevent degradation. Phenoxyethanol SA should also be added at temperatures below 60°C. Butter Cream Maker, however, requires heating to around 70-80°C to properly melt and emulsify the ingredients.

To resolve this, you should heat the components that require higher temperatures first, and then add the heat-sensitive ingredients after the mixture has cooled down.

Here is a recommended mixing method for your 10% AHA cream formula:

Formula:

• Glycolic Acid: 10%
• Butter Cream Maker: 4%
• Fractionated Coconut Oil: 5%
• Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
• Water: 80%

Mixing Steps:

1. Combine the Water, Butter Cream Maker, and Fractionated Coconut Oil in a heat-resistant container.
2. Heat this mixture to approximately 70-80°C. Stir or blend continuously until the Butter Cream Maker is completely melted and the oil and water phases are well combined.
3. Remove the mixture from heat and allow it to cool down.
4. Once the temperature drops below 60°C (ideally around 50°C), add the Glycolic Acid and Phenoxyethanol SA.
5. Continue stirring or blending until all ingredients are uniformly dispersed and the cream has reached room temperature.

This method ensures that the Butter Cream Maker is properly incorporated while protecting the efficacy of the Glycolic Acid and Phenoxyethanol SA.