Making Unorthodox Water-Based Formulations (Water/Oil)

Creating a stable water-based formulation like an unorthodox pomade involves carefully combining the water and oil phases with the help of an emulsifier. Your proposed steps are close, but the timing for adding the emulsifier is key.

Here is a more typical process:

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine water and any water-soluble ingredients (like humectants or water-soluble polymers) in a container. Heat this phase to around 70-80°C.
2. Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate container, combine your waxes, oils, oil-soluble ingredients, and the emulsifier. Heat this phase to the same temperature as the water phase (70-80°C) until all waxes are fully melted.
3. Combine Phases: Slowly add the hot oil phase to the hot water phase while stirring continuously. High shear mixing is often recommended at this stage to help create a fine, stable emulsion.
4. Cooling: Continue stirring the mixture as it cools down. Stirring during the cooling process helps to maintain the emulsion stability and achieve a smooth, consistent texture.
5. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, you can add heat-sensitive ingredients such as fragrance, color, and preservatives.
6. Final Mixing: Continue mixing until all ingredients are evenly dispersed and the product has cooled to room temperature.

Your proposed step 4, adding the mixing agent (emulsifier) after combining the wax/oil with water, is generally too late in the process for forming a stable emulsion. The emulsifier needs to be present when the oil and water phases are brought together.

Regarding percentages, these can vary greatly depending on the desired properties (hold, shine, texture). However, here are some typical ranges for a water-based pomade:

• Water: 50-70%
• Waxes: 5-15% (e.g., Synthetic Wax, Sunflower Wax, Tribehenin, Glossy Wax)
• Oils: 5-15% (e.g., Mineral Oil)
• Emulsifier/Solubilizer: 5-15% (depending on the specific emulsifier and the amount of oil/wax. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a common choice for solubilizing oils in water)
• Preservative: 0.5-1.5% (follow supplier's recommended usage rate)
• Fragrance/Color: As needed (typically less than 1% for fragrance)

Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Wax Flakes) is primarily a wax/thickener, while PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is commonly used as a solubilizer/emulsifier. Ensure you are using an ingredient suitable for creating a water-based emulsion.

Always test your formulation in small batches and adjust percentages based on the performance and stability you desire.