Mixing Powdered Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

Asked by: asun1909 On: May 25, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to use powdered Hyaluronic Acid (HA) in my formulation. The instructions say "Mix before all liquid ingredients, but after all dry powder ingredients". Can you please explain what this means and provide a detailed mixing procedure for powdered HA, especially regarding the order of adding other dry powders and liquid ingredients in the water phase?

Answer

I understand you're confused about the mixing instructions for powdered Hyaluronic Acid (HA). The instruction "Mix before all liquid ingredients, but after all dry powder ingredients" refers to the order of adding ingredients into the water phase of your formulation.

Generally, when making a cosmetic formulation with powdered HA, you start by preparing the water phase.

  1. Add other dry powder ingredients (if any): Any other dry powder ingredients that need to be dissolved or dispersed in water (e.g., powdered preservatives, powder extracts) should be added and mixed into the water first.
  2. Add powdered HA: After other dry powder ingredients are well mixed, or if there are no other dry powders, add the powdered HA to the water. Powdered HA needs to absorb water and swell into a gel, a process called hydration, which takes time. Adding it at this stage allows the HA sufficient time to fully hydrate.
  3. Add other liquid ingredients (in the water phase): Once the HA has started to swell or is partially hydrated, you can then add other liquid ingredients that belong in the water phase, such as Glycerin, liquid extracts, liquid preservatives, etc.
  4. Combine phases: After the water phase is well mixed, it is then combined with other phases, such as the oil phase if it's an emulsion, or other ingredients added in the final step.

Simple Mixing Order Example (for the water phase):

Suppose your formula contains: Water, Powder Preservative, HA Powder, Glycerin (liquid), Liquid Extract (liquid).

The mixing order would be:

  1. Measure Water into a container.
  2. Add Powder Preservative to the water. Stir to dissolve/disperse.
  3. Add HA Powder. Stir briefly to disperse, then let it sit to allow the HA to slowly absorb water and swell into a gel (this can take several hours or overnight, depending on the type of HA).
  4. Once the HA is fully hydrated, add Glycerin and Liquid Extract. Stir until well combined.
  5. (Subsequent steps depend on the full formula, e.g., combining with an oil phase or adjusting pH).

In summary, "Mix after all dry powder ingredients" means that any other dry powders that need to dissolve in water should be added before the HA. "Mix before all liquid ingredients" means that other liquids belonging in the water phase should be added after the powdered HA has been added and has begun the hydration process.

I hope this example helps clarify the process.