Mixing Vitamin B3 and Alpha Arbutin in Serum and Addressing Skin Issues

How to Mix Vitamin B3 and Alpha Arbutin into a Serum

To safely and effectively mix Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Alpha Arbutin into a serum, it is crucial to follow proper cosmetic formulation principles, which involve measuring ingredients by weight (% w/w) using a precise scale, not by volume or imprecise methods like using a matchstick head.

Both Niacinamide (such as Safe-B3 or Extreme-B3) and Alpha Arbutin are water-soluble powders. They can be mixed into the water phase of a serum formula. Key considerations for mixing are:

• Usage Rate: Refer to the recommended usage rates for each ingredient. For Alpha Arbutin, the recommended rate is typically 0.2-2% (with 2% recommended for skin brightening). For Niacinamide, the rate is usually 1-10% (Safe-B3 and Extreme-B3 can be used up to 10% without causing flushing).
• pH Level: The final pH of the serum is critical, especially for Alpha Arbutin. Alpha Arbutin is stable in a pH range of 3.5-6.5. If the pH is higher than 8, Alpha Arbutin can break down into Hydroquinone, which is a dangerous substance. Niacinamide is stable in a pH range of 3-8, with an optimum range of 4.0-7.0. Therefore, the final serum pH should ideally be between 4.0 and 6.5 to ensure the stability and effectiveness of both ingredients.
• Mixing Method: Dissolve the powders in the water phase of your serum base. Ensure the temperature is below 30°C when adding Alpha Arbutin during the final mixing stage.

Creating a serum from scratch allows you to control the concentration and pH precisely, ensuring safety and efficacy. Using a precise scale is essential for accurate measurement.

Possible Cause of Skin Issues from Using "Matchstick Head" Measurement

The skin issues you experienced, including dark spots resembling melasma and white patches, are likely due to the incorrect method of measuring the powder "equal to a matchstick head" and mixing it with Hada Labo. Here's why:

• Inaccurate Concentration: Measuring by volume (like a matchstick head) is highly inaccurate for cosmetic ingredients, which should be measured by weight. This leads to an unpredictable and potentially very high concentration of the active ingredient, which can cause severe irritation, chemical burns, and uneven pigmentation (both hyperpigmentation or dark spots and hypopigmentation or white patches).
• Potential for Hydroquinone Formation: If the powder you received was indeed Alpha Arbutin but was mixed into a base with a pH higher than 6.5 (the pH of Hada Labo products can vary, but some might be outside the optimal range for Alpha Arbutin stability), the Alpha Arbutin could have degraded into Hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is a potent skin lightener but is also a restricted substance that can cause serious side effects, including paradoxical hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin) and ochronosis (bluish-black discoloration) with prolonged or incorrect use. The rapid skin brightening initially observed might also suggest the presence of a fast-acting, potentially harmful substance like Hydroquinone, as Alpha Arbutin typically takes at least 8 weeks to show noticeable results.
• Impurity or Incorrect Substance: There is also a possibility that the powder you received was not pure Alpha Arbutin or contained other harmful substances.

Cosmetic formulation requires precise measurement and understanding of ingredient properties and interactions to ensure safety and effectiveness. Using imprecise methods or potentially unstable mixtures can lead to adverse skin reactions.

It is strongly recommended to discontinue using the powder you purchased and consult a dermatologist regarding the skin issues you are experiencing. For future formulations, always source ingredients from reputable suppliers and follow recommended usage rates and mixing guidelines based on weight measurements.