Formulation Advice

Here is some advice regarding the formulation you found and your questions:

Perfect-C vs L-Ascorbic Acid Irritation

Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is generally considered less irritating than L-Ascorbic Acid. L-Ascorbic Acid requires a low pH (typically 2.0-4.0) to be stable and effective, which can cause skin irritation for some people. Perfect-C is an oil-soluble derivative that is stable at a higher pH (5.0-5.5) and is known for good skin absorption with less potential for irritation.

Adding Perfect-C 10% to the Formula

Yes, you can add Perfect-C 10% to the formula. Perfect-C is oil-soluble and should be added to the oil phase of your formulation. Adding it after Squalane, which is also in the oil phase, is the correct approach. The original formula uses Satin Cream Maker, which can emulsify up to 25% oil, so adding 10% Perfect-C to the existing 5% Squalane (total 15% oil phase components) is within its capacity. Ensure the final pH of your formula is between 5.0-5.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of Perfect-C.

Adding Repair Activator 15%

Yes, you can add Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) at 15% to the formula. Repair Activator is water-soluble and the recommended usage rate is 5-100%. It should be added in the final step of your formulation process, avoiding high heat.

Replacing Squalane with Other Oils or Butters

Yes, you can replace Squalane with other oils or butters like Rose Hip Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Shea Butter, or Cocoa Butter Replacer. These are all oil-soluble and can be incorporated into the oil phase. However, each oil and butter has different properties, fatty acid profiles, and skin feel. Replacing Squalane, which is lightweight and non-greasy, with heavier oils or solid butters will change the texture and feel of your final product. Consider the desired skin feel when choosing a replacement.

Increasing Oil/Fat Percentage to 25%

Yes, you can increase the total oil/fat percentage in the formula up to 25% when using Satin Cream Maker, as this emulsifier can handle up to 25% oil content.

Replacing Satin Mousse with Light Cream Maker

Light Cream Maker can potentially replace Satin Cream Maker as both are non-heat emulsifiers. However, Light Cream Maker can only handle up to 20% oil, whereas Satin Cream Maker can handle up to 25%. If you plan to increase the oil phase significantly (above 20%), Light Cream Maker may not be suitable. Additionally, Light Cream Maker may be affected by high electrolyte concentrations in the formula, which is less of a concern with Satin Cream Maker. The resulting texture might also differ.