Modifying Cleansing Oil Formula: Removing Citrus Oils and Alternative Emulsifiers

Asked by: kanyarach On: May 30, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a cleansing oil formula with the following ingredients:

  • Base Oils: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Squalane, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.
  • Emulsifiers: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Isoamyl Laurate.
  • Other Ingredients: Tocopheryl Acetate.
  • Citrus Essential Oils: Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Citral, Linalool.

My questions are:

  1. Can I remove the Citrus Essential Oils from this formula? What would be the impact of removing them?
  2. Is it possible to replace the current emulsifiers (Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Isoamyl Laurate) with Sugar Gel + Glycerin? What kind of texture and emulsification behavior could I expect from this alternative?

Answer

Based on the formula provided, the main ingredients are:

  • Base Oils: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Squalane, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.
  • Emulsifiers: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Isoamyl Laurate.
  • Other Ingredients: Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E).
  • Citrus Essential Oils: Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Citral, Linalool (these last four are components naturally found in the essential oils).

Regarding the Citrus oils, they are primarily included as essential oils for fragrance. Yes, you can remove them, but the product will lose its citrus scent. As mentioned in the discussion, if you remove the essential oils, you might need to add a different fragrance to mask the potential natural scent or rancidity smell of the base oils over time.

The discussion also touched upon the emulsification and suggested using Sugar Gel with Glycerin as an alternative emulsifier to achieve a different texture and emulsification behavior.