Moisturizer Formulation with Stable Vitamin C for Hada Labo Texture

Asked by: abandon.p On: January 12, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to create a moisturizer similar to Hada Labo in texture but also want to include Vitamin C. Staff mentioned that L-Ascorbic Acid is not suitable for this type of formula due to limitations and recommended two alternative formulas using Perfect-C or Stabilized Vitamin C AA2G. The recommended formulas are:

Formula Option 1 (using Perfect-C):

  1. Distilled Water 99mL
  2. Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule 1%
  3. Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 3-5%
  4. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 2%
  5. Allantoin 0.5%
  6. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  7. Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
  8. Pro Polymer™ 0.3-0.4% (adjust for desired thickness)

Formula Option 2 (using Stabilized Vitamin C AA2G):

  1. Distilled Water 99mL
  2. Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule 1%
  3. Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) 3-5%
  4. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 2%
  5. Allantoin 0.5%
  6. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  7. Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
  8. Pro Polymer™ 0.3-0.4% (adjust for desired thickness)

Based on these recommended formulas, I have the following questions:

  1. To achieve a watery/jelly texture similar to Hada Labo, the staff suggested Pro Polymer™ at 0.3-0.4%. Would using Xanthan Gum at 0.2% instead give a similar texture, or is Pro Polymer™ necessary for the desired feel?
  2. I was concerned about using Vitamin C at 3% concentration potentially exceeding a pH of 6.0, as is often the case with L-Ascorbic Acid. How do the recommended stable forms like Perfect-C™ and Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) handle this concentration and pH requirement?
  3. How is the absorption speed of the recommended formulas? Will they absorb well into the skin without feeling heavy or sticky?

Answer

Moisturizer Formula Review and Recommendations

Based on your interest in creating a moisturizer similar to Hada Labo and the feedback from the staff, here's a review of your proposed formula and recommendations:

Your initial formula using L-Ascorbic Acid as Vitamin C is not recommended. As the staff mentioned, L-Ascorbic Acid has stability limitations in this type of water-based formula, making it difficult to maintain effectiveness and control pH.

It is highly recommended to follow one of the alternative formulas provided by the staff, which use more stable forms of Vitamin C:

Recommended Formula Option 1 (using Perfect-C):

  1. Distilled Water 99mL
  2. Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule 1%
  3. Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 3-5%
  4. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 2%
  5. Allantoin 0.5%
  6. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  7. Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
  8. Pro Polymer™ 0.3-0.4% (adjust for desired thickness)

Recommended Formula Option 2 (using Stabilized Vitamin C AA2G):

  1. Distilled Water 99mL
  2. Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule 1%
  3. Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) 3-5%
  4. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 2%
  5. Allantoin 0.5%
  6. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  7. Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
  8. Pro Polymer™ 0.3-0.4% (adjust for desired thickness)

Let's address your specific questions based on these recommended formulas:

  1. Texture (Xanthan Gum vs. Pro Polymer™): You wanted a watery/jelly texture similar to Hada Labo and asked if Xanthan Gum 0.2% would work. The staff's recommendation to use Pro Polymer™ at 0.3-0.4% is key to achieving this texture. Pro Polymer™ is a gel maker that can create a range of textures, from a general gel to a more fluid, watery-jelly consistency depending on the concentration. Using Pro Polymer™ as suggested will likely give you the Hada Labo-like texture you desire, which is different from the texture typically produced by Xanthan Gum.

  2. Vitamin C Concentration (3%) and pH: Your concern about 3% Vitamin C exceeding a pH of 6.0 is valid for L-Ascorbic Acid. However, by using the recommended stable forms like Perfect-C™ or Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G), you can use concentrations in the 3-5% range effectively. Perfect-C™ works best in a pH range of 5.0-5.5, while Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is stable at pH 6.5-6.8. Following the mixing instructions for these specific Vitamin C types will ensure stability and efficacy at the recommended concentrations.

  3. Absorption Speed: The ingredients in the recommended formulas are generally known for good absorption and hydration. Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) provides surface hydration, while Panthenol (Vitamin B5) is a humectant that helps the skin retain moisture and improves skin elasticity and softness, absorbing well. Allantoin soothes the skin and supports tissue regeneration. The texture created by Pro Polymer™ (watery/jelly) also contributes to a feeling of quick absorption compared to heavier formulations. The combination is designed to be a hydrating serum/moisturizer that absorbs reasonably well without feeling overly heavy or greasy.

By using the staff's recommended formulas with Perfect-C™ or Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) and Pro Polymer™, you can create a stable, effective moisturizer with a texture similar to Hada Labo that provides good hydration and absorbs well.