Moisturizing Cream Formula Adjustment for Texture Improvement
คำถาม
I am formulating a moisturizing cream with the following formula:
Water 75.5
Glycerin 3.0
Xanthan Gum 0.2
Carbomer 940 0.3
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0
Caprylic/ capric triglyceride 2.0
Cetyl Alcohol 2.5
Ceteareth-20 2.0
Petrolatum 0.5
Dimethicone 3.0
Stearic Acid 2.0
Triethanolamine Adjust until pH 5
Coffee pulp extract 5.0
Microcare PHC 1.0
The resulting cream texture is not dense, it is greasy, absorbs slowly, and is sticky. I would like to know which ingredients should be decreased or increased to achieve a denser, fast-absorbing, easy-to-spread, non-greasy texture. Could someone knowledgeable please help answer? Thank you in advance.
คำตอบ
Moisturizing Cream Formula Adjustment
Based on your moisturizing cream formula and the texture issues you're experiencing (not dense, greasy, slow absorption, sticky), here are some suggestions for modification to achieve a denser, faster-absorbing, non-greasy, and easy-to-spread texture:
Your current formula has a good base, but the texture can be improved by adjusting the balance of thickeners and emollients. The presence of Petrolatum, even at 0.5%, can contribute to a greasy feel and slow absorption. The level of thickeners might also be slightly low for a denser cream.
Here are the proposed adjustments:
- Remove Petrolatum (0.5%): Petrolatum is a heavy occlusive agent that is likely contributing significantly to the greasy feel and slow absorption. Removing it will result in a much lighter, less greasy texture.
- Increase Carbomer 940 (from 0.3% to 0.5%): Increasing the primary gelling agent will help create a denser, more structured cream texture.
- Keep other ingredients: Maintain the percentages of Glycerin (3.0%), Xanthan Gum (0.2%), Cetearyl Alcohol (3.0%), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (2.0%), Cetyl Alcohol (2.5%), Ceteareth-20 (2.0%), Dimethicone (3.0%), Stearic Acid (2.0%), Coffee pulp extract (5.0%), and Microcare PHC (1.0%). The combination of fatty alcohols (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid) provides body, while Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Dimethicone help with spreadability and skin feel without being overly heavy (especially after removing Petrolatum).
- Adjust Water: Increase the water percentage to balance the removal of Petrolatum and the slight increase in Carbomer 940. The new water percentage would be 75.8%.
Revised Formula Suggestion:
- Water: 75.8%
- Glycerin: 3.0%
- Xanthan Gum: 0.2%
- Carbomer 940: 0.5%
- Cetearyl Alcohol: 3.0%
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 2.0%
- Cetyl Alcohol: 2.5%
- Ceteareth-20: 2.0%
- Petrolatum: 0.0%
- Dimethicone: 3.0%
- Stearic Acid: 2.0%
- Triethanolamine: Adjust pH to 5
- Coffee pulp extract: 5.0%
- Microcare PHC: 1.0%
This revised formula should provide a denser texture due to the increased Carbomer, while the removal of Petrolatum and the balance of other emollients will lead to faster absorption, less greasiness, and a non-sticky feel, while still maintaining easy spreadability. Remember to adjust the amount of Triethanolamine as needed to achieve a final pH of 5.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Triethanolamine 99%
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Cetyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Low-Odor)
Stearic Acid (Stearic: 39-45%, Palmitic: 53-60%)
Chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.)
Ceteareth-20 (Flake)