Moisturizing Cream Formula Analysis and Tranexamic Acid Usage
คำถาม
I have been using a moisturizing cream that seems to help with my oily skin. The staff provided the following list of ingredients:
- butyrospermum parkii butter / shea butter
- Urea
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
The staff also mentioned that other ingredients function to adjust texture, build formula structure, act as preservatives, and provide fragrance.
Could you please provide a detailed analysis of this cream formula, including:
- Identification of active ingredients and the function of other ingredients.
- Estimated percentage ranges for each group of ingredients (water phase, oil phase, thickeners, emulsifiers, etc.).
- Suggestions for substituting some ingredients if they are unavailable, while maintaining a similar texture and function.
Additionally, I would like to ask about Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™):
- Can someone who does not have melasma but wants brighter skin use Tranexamic Acid?
- If yes, what is the recommended usage percentage?
- Can it be used long-term?
คำตอบ
Subject: Moisturizing Cream Formula Analysis
Hello,
Thank you for sharing the ingredient list of the moisturizing cream you've been using. It's interesting that it helped reduce oiliness for your oily skin. This is likely due to the combination of hydrating ingredients and emollients that provide a light, non-greasy feel.
Based on the ingredient list, this is likely an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion formula designed to provide hydration and a smooth skin feel without being heavy or clogging pores.
Here's a breakdown of the ingredients by function and estimated percentage ranges. Please note that these are approximate ranges based on typical cosmetic formulations and the exact percentages can vary significantly depending on the desired texture and performance.
Water Phase (approx. 60-80%):
- Water (Aqua): The main solvent and base of the emulsion. (Balance to 100%)
- Humectants (Glycerin, Urea, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol): Ingredients that attract and hold water in the skin, providing hydration. (Total typically 5-15%)
- Substitution Note: Most of these humectants are commonly available. If one is unavailable, others can often be used, potentially adjusting the amount or combination.
Oil Phase & Emollients (approx. 15-30%):
- Emollients & Oils (Shea Butter, Dimethicone, Mineral Oil, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylyl Glycol): These ingredients help to soften, smooth, and condition the skin, and form the oil phase of the emulsion. Dimethicone and Mineral Oil can contribute to a smooth, less greasy feel. Shea Butter provides richness but is likely used at a lower percentage for a light texture. (Total typically 10-25%)
- Substitution Note: Lighter emollients like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride or Squalane could potentially substitute heavier oils like Mineral Oil or reduce the need for higher Shea Butter levels if a lighter feel is desired. Other silicones could substitute Dimethicone.
- Emollients & Oils (Shea Butter, Dimethicone, Mineral Oil, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylyl Glycol): These ingredients help to soften, smooth, and condition the skin, and form the oil phase of the emulsion. Dimethicone and Mineral Oil can contribute to a smooth, less greasy feel. Shea Butter provides richness but is likely used at a lower percentage for a light texture. (Total typically 10-25%)
Thickeners & Stabilizers (approx. 5-10%):
- Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Polyethylene: These ingredients build the viscosity and structure of the cream/lotion, providing the desired texture and stability. (Total typically 5-10%)
- Substitution Note: This is a complex thickening system. Substituting one thickener (e.g., using a different gelling agent if Carbomer is unavailable) would likely require adjusting the amounts of others to achieve a similar texture. Polyethylene is less common; other waxes or polymers might be alternatives depending on its specific role.
- Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Polyethylene: These ingredients build the viscosity and structure of the cream/lotion, providing the desired texture and stability. (Total typically 5-10%)
Emulsifiers (approx. 4-8%):
- PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60: These surfactants help to mix the oil and water phases together to form a stable emulsion. (Total typically 4-8%)
- Substitution Note: This is a common emulsifier blend. Other O/W emulsifier systems could be used, but would require formula adjustments.
- PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60: These surfactants help to mix the oil and water phases together to form a stable emulsion. (Total typically 4-8%)
Other Ingredients:
- Triethanolamine: Used to adjust the pH, often to neutralize Carbomer. (<1%)
- Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that improves product stability and preservative efficacy. (<0.1%)
- Preservative System: While Caprylyl Glycol is listed and can act as a preservative booster, a broad-spectrum preservative blend is essential for product safety (e.g., Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin). (Typically 0.5-2%)
- Fragrance (Parfum): Provides scent. (<1%)
Most of the ingredients listed appear to be standard cosmetic raw materials that are likely available on the website you linked. You can click on the links you provided to see the specific products available.
Regarding your question about Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™):
Yes, as the staff reply confirmed, Tranexamic Acid can be used for general skin whitening and brightening purposes, even if you do not have melasma. It works by helping to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve overall skin tone.
- Recommended Concentration: It can be safely used up to a maximum concentration of 3.00% in cosmetic products, as permitted by regulations.
- Long-Term Use: It is considered safe for long-term use within the permitted concentration limit.
I hope this detailed breakdown helps you understand the formula better and guides you in creating your own version!
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Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Triethanolamine 99%
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Cetyl Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Trans-White™
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Light (26cst)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)