MSH White Solubility in Low pH Vitamin C Serum

Asked by: pattarawutth On: May 29, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding the formulation of a serum similar to Skinceuticals C E Ferulic (which has a low pH around 3-4) containing Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and MSH White (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine):

Based on the information that MSH White is water-soluble at low pH, is it possible to dissolve MSH White in the water phase after Vitamin C has been added, which lowers the pH of the water phase?

Answer

MSH White Solubility in Vitamin C Serum

Based on the product information for MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) and Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid):

  • MSH White™ is soluble in oil or alcohol with heat (at least 60°C, recommended 80°C for mixing in the oil phase) or in water at a high pH (>8). It is not soluble in Propylene Glycol or low pH water.
  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is water-soluble and requires a low pH (2.0-4.0) for stability and effectiveness in a serum formulation.

Therefore, you cannot dissolve MSH White™ in Propylene Glycol or in the water phase after adding Vitamin C, as the pH will be low (acidic), which is contrary to MSH White's solubility requirement in water (high pH >8). MSH White needs to be dissolved in the oil phase or alcohol with heat according to its instructions.

While MSH White™ and Vitamin C work well together to enhance skin brightening, they must be incorporated into a formula following their specific solubility and mixing guidelines. This typically means MSH White would be dissolved in the oil phase (if the formula has one) or a suitable solvent like alcohol with heat, and Vitamin C would be dissolved separately in the water phase at the correct low pH, before combining the phases appropriately if making an emulsion, or formulating in a system where both can be stable and properly dissolved/dispersed according to their properties.