Multi-Benefit Cream Formulation for Oily/Combination Skin: Compatibility & Stability

Okay, I understand your skin concerns and goals. You're looking for a single cream for day and night use that targets melasma, acne scars, dullness, oiliness in the T-zone, lack of moisture, and enlarged pores, while also addressing occasional acne. You've proposed two formulas and asked if they can be mixed, for formula adjustment, and mixing steps.

Based on your request and the staff's feedback:

1. Acne Treatment Formula (Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 6.6% + Water): This formula can be mixed, provided you use the liquid form of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. However, applying a 6.6% BHA serum day and night might be too strong for daily use, especially in combination with other active ingredients in your cream, and could potentially cause irritation. It might be better to use this as a targeted spot treatment or a few times a week if needed, or consider incorporating a lower percentage of BHA into the cream if suitable for daily application. Given you are already using Skinoren, adding high-strength BHA might require careful consideration.

2. Cream Formula: Your initial cream formula was incomplete as the percentages did not add up to 100% and it was missing an emulsifier to combine the water and oil phases into a stable cream. The second proposed formula by another user added Rose Hip Oil and Light Cream Maker. The staff correctly pointed out that Light Cream Maker is not ideal for formulas containing electrolytes like Vitamin B6, which can destabilize the emulsion. They also advised against using Rose Hip Oil for oily/combination skin as it can add excess oil.

To create a stable cream that addresses your concerns (melasma, dark spots, brightening, oil control, pores, moisture) and is suitable for your skin type, I recommend adjusting the formula and using an emulsifier system that can handle electrolytes.

Here is a revised cream formula proposal:

Revised Cream Formula (Focus: Reduce Melasma, Acne Scars, Brighten Skin, Control Oil, Moisturize, Tighten Pores):

• Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%
• WhiteCumin™ 2x (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids) 2.5%
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) 3%
• Activated Resorcinol™ 1%
• Nano Silver Pure™ 1%
• Sea Kelp Extract 2%
• Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride) 1%
• PE-1 Aqua 2%
• Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1%
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4%
• Satin Cream Maker™ 1.5%
• Pro Polymer 0.5%
• Water (rest) 70%

Total = 100%

This formula uses Satin Cream Maker and Pro Polymer as recommended by the staff, which is suitable for formulas containing Vitamin B6. It also includes a light oil suitable for combination skin and a variety of active ingredients targeting melasma, dark spots, brightening, oil control, pores, and moisture.

Mixing Steps:

1. Prepare Phase A (Water Phase): Weigh Water, Sea Kelp Extract, GlucoBright™, Safe-B3™, Tranexamic Acid, Vitamin B6, PE-1 Aqua in a heat-resistant container. Stir until dissolved. Gradually sprinkle in Pro Polymer and mix or use a homogenizer until Pro Polymer is dispersed and starts to thicken slightly. Heat to approximately 70-75°C.
2. Prepare Phase B (Oil Phase): Weigh Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Satin Cream Maker™, WhiteCumin™ 2x, Activated Resorcinol™ in another heat-resistant container. Heat to approximately 70-75°C, the same temperature as Phase A.
3. Combine Phase A and Phase B: Slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while using a high-shear mixer (like a Hand Mixer or Homogenizer) at high speed to emulsify the mixture. Mix continuously for about 1-3 minutes until a smooth cream is formed.
4. Cool Down Phase: Stop heating and continue mixing (you can reduce the speed) to help the cream cool down. When the temperature drops below 40°C.
5. Add Phase C (Cool-down Phase): Weigh Papaya Enzyme (Papain), Nano Silver Pure™, Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus). Gradually add Phase C ingredients to the cooled cream and mix well until fully incorporated.
6. Check and Package: Check that the cream is smooth and uniform. Let the cream sit for a while to set before packaging into clean, dry containers.

Additional Recommendations:

• Always perform a patch test before applying the product to your entire face.
• Since the formula contains multiple active ingredients, start by using a small amount and observe your skin's reaction. If irritation occurs, you may need to reduce the frequency of use.
• You are currently using Skinoren (Azelaic Acid), which also targets acne and dark spots. Using this cream formula alongside Skinoren might enhance results but could also increase the potential for irritation. Monitor your skin closely. If you experience excessive dryness, peeling, or irritation, you may need to adjust the concentration or frequency of either product, or use them on alternate days/times.
• Applying SPF50 sunscreen daily is crucial, especially when using products that help with exfoliation and reduce dark spots. Apply it every day, even if you are not exposed to strong sunlight.

Hope this advice is helpful! Let me know if you have any further questions.