Natural Formulation Review: Texture and Emulsifier for Cream/Balm

ถามโดย: phitchayathida.s เมื่อ: June 24, 2020 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have the following formulation:
Calendula Extract 5%
Benzoin 10%
Clove Oil 3%
Chamomile 1%
Centella water extract 5%
Lavender 1%
Eucalyptus 1%
Menthol 4%
Glycerine 4%
Beeswax 40%
Water 22.5%
Lecithin 3%
Bio preservative 0.5%

Is Lecithin the correct emulsifier for water and oil in a natural formulation? I want the cream texture to be smooth and soft. Are the percentages calculated correctly? I don't want to use chemical ingredients.

คำตอบ

Formulation Feedback

Thank you for sharing your formulation. Here is some feedback regarding your questions:

Lecithin as an Emulsifier

Yes, Lecithin is a natural emulsifier that can help combine the water and oil phases in your formulation. Products like Soy Lecithin (Liquid) or LeciCream™ (Hydrogenated Lecithin) are commonly used for this purpose in natural formulations. Your proposed usage rate of 3% for Lecithin is within the typical range for emulsifying water and oil.

Achieving a Smooth Texture

The texture of your cream will be significantly influenced by the high percentage of Beeswax (40%). Beeswax, such as Natural White Beeswax or Yellow Beeswax, is primarily used as a thickener and provides a soft, waxy texture. At 40%, your formulation will likely result in a very thick, balm-like consistency rather than a light, smooth cream. To achieve a smoother, creamier texture, you would typically use a lower percentage of wax and potentially incorporate other emulsifiers or texture modifiers. The ratio of oil phase (including beeswax and other oils) to water phase also plays a crucial role in the final texture. With 40% Beeswax and only 22.5% water, the oil phase is dominant, leading to a very solid product.

Ingredient Percentages and "Chemical-Free" Formula

Your ingredient percentages add up to 100%, which is correct for a formulation.

Regarding a "chemical-free" formula, it's important to note that all substances are chemicals. The goal is likely to use natural or naturally derived ingredients and avoid synthetic ones. Most of the ingredients you listed, such as Calendula Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lavender Water, Eucalyptus Water, Menthol, Glycerin, and Beeswax, are natural or naturally derived.

However, the term "Bio preservative" can vary. While some "bio preservatives" like Probio-Protect™ (Lactobacillus Ferment) are truly naturally derived and can allow for a "preservative-free" claim, others may contain synthetic components like Benzyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, or Butylene Glycol (as seen in descriptions for products like NaturePreserve™ LB2 or Coco-Preserve™). If your goal is a completely natural formulation, you should verify the specific INCI name of the "Bio preservative" you plan to use and choose one that aligns with your definition of "chemical-free" or natural.

In summary, while Lecithin is a suitable natural emulsifier, the high percentage of Beeswax will likely result in a thick balm rather than a smooth cream. The ingredient percentages are mathematically correct, and most ingredients are natural, but the "Bio preservative" should be carefully selected if a strictly natural formula is desired.

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Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
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Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
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Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
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Natural White Beeswax (USA, Melting 62C, Deodorized)
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Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
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Lavender Water (Lavandula Angustifolia)
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Yellow Beeswax
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Eucalyptus Water
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Soy Lecithin (Soy Bean Oil, Liquid Lecithin)
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Probio-Protect™ (Lactobacillus Ferment Preservative)
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Menthol Water Soluble (20% Menthol, Liquid)
Menthol Water Soluble (20% Menthol, Liquid)
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LeciCream™ (Natural Emulsifier / Cream Maker)
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Coco-Preserve™ (Preservative from Coconut Extract)
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NaturePreserve™ LB2
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