Natural Lotion Formulation: Feasibility and Adjustments for a Provided Formula

Asked by: zheezelz On: August 13, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following formula and would like to know if it can be produced as a lotion, focusing on natural ingredients. Please provide recommendations.

Formula:

  • Water 80%
  • Glycerine 2%
  • Coconut oil 3%
  • Shea butter 2%
  • Stearic acid 3%
  • Cetyl alcohol 2%
  • Soy lecithin 2%
  • Xanthan gum 4%
  • Essential oil 1%
  • Preservative 1% (or possibly not used)

Answer

Regarding the lotion formula you provided and your goal for it to be 100% natural:

Yes, this formula structure can form a lotion (an emulsion of oil and water). However, some percentages seem high for a typical lotion texture, especially the Xanthan gum at 4%. This amount is likely to create a very thick gel rather than a pourable or spreadable lotion, and might feel sticky.

Addressing the "100% natural" aspect:

  • Many ingredients you listed can be natural (e.g., vegetable glycerin, plant-derived stearic acid and cetyl alcohol), but you need to ensure they are sourced naturally.
  • Soy lecithin, coconut oil, shea butter, xanthan gum, and essential oils are generally natural.
  • It is highly recommended to use a preservative, especially with 80% water. Natural ingredients are prone to microbial growth. Omitting a preservative is unsafe and will lead to spoilage. There are natural preservative options available.

Recommendations for a natural lotion:

  • Adjust Xanthan gum: Try a much lower percentage, typically 0.1% to 0.5% for a lotion consistency. 4% is usually for thick gels.
  • Emulsifier system: Your combination of Soy lecithin, Stearic acid, and Cetyl alcohol can work, but achieving a stable, pleasant texture might require optimization. Consider using a dedicated natural emulsifier designed for lotions, such as Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate (often sold as 'Olivem 1000'), which is derived from olive oil and known for creating stable, nice-feeling emulsions. You would typically use this at 5-10% depending on your oil phase.
  • Preservative: Research and include a broad-spectrum natural preservative suitable for your formula's pH. Examples include Geogard 221 (Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid), Leucidal Liquid SF (Lactobacillus Ferment), or similar. This is crucial for safety.
  • Sourcing: Ensure your Glycerine, Stearic Acid, and Cetyl Alcohol are plant-derived.
  • Optional: Explore other natural oils (Jojoba, Almond) or butters (Cocoa, Mango) and natural humectants (Propanediol, Sodium PCA) to customize the feel and benefits.

In summary, with adjustments to the thickener and emulsifier system, and the essential addition of a natural preservative, this formula can be developed into a natural lotion.