Natural Sunscreen Formulation: Addressing White Cast and Texture

ถามโดย: busaba1981 เมื่อ: October 28, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to develop a natural-focused sunscreen formulation using Zinc Oxide Nano and Titanium Dioxide Nano. The desired texture should be lightweight, non-whitening, non-comedogenic, and non-greasy, suitable for all skin types. I am looking for an alternative to Soy Lecithin as an emulsifier. Could you provide a sample formulation and guidance?

คำตอบ

Natural Sunscreen Formulation (SPF 30+ PA++++)

Dear Customer,

Regarding your requirement to develop a natural-focused sunscreen formulation using Zinc Oxide Nano and Titanium Dioxide Nano, aiming for a lightweight, non-whitening, non-comedogenic, and non-greasy texture suitable for all skin types, and seeking an alternative to Soy Lecithin, we have considered your needs and propose the following sample formulation:

Points to Note:

  • Using Soy Lecithin as an emulsifier in a low-oil formula for a lightweight texture can be challenging and may result in a heavier texture, as previously discussed.
  • This formula uses Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™ in a limited amount (not exceeding 3%) to help reduce the white cast while maintaining sun protection efficacy in combination with Zinc Oxide Nano.
  • To determine the exact SPF and PA values, laboratory testing is required. Adjusting the amounts of sunscreen actives (Zinc Oxide Nano, Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™) may be necessary to achieve the desired values.

Sample Formulation (Adjust as needed):

  • Part 1 (Water Phase):
    • Water (Deionized Water): Remaining portion (approx. 55-65%)
    • Propanediol (Natural Humectant): 5% - Provides moisture and acts as a good solvent.
  • Part 2 (Oil/Sunscreen Phase):
    • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Light Natural Ester Oil): 10-15% - A lightweight ester oil that helps disperse sunscreen powders and provides a smooth, non-greasy feel.
    • Zinc Oxide Nano: 10-12% - The primary physical sunscreen active, providing broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB.
    • Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™: 2-3% - A physical sunscreen active providing UVB and some UVA protection. The EasyDisperse grade helps with easy dispersion and reduces whitening.
  • Part 3 (Thickener/Stabilizer):
    • Pro Polymer: 1-1.5% - A gel/cream thickener that increases viscosity and helps suspend sunscreen powders, resulting in a stable and lightweight texture.
  • Part 4 (Preservative):
    • Preserve SC (Natural-Compatible Preservative Blend): 1-1.5% - A preservative system compatible with natural ingredients.

Approximate Procedure:

  1. Combine Part 2 (Oil/Sunscreen Phase) and mix or use a homogenizer to disperse the Zinc Oxide Nano and Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™ thoroughly in the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. (This step is crucial for a smooth texture and effective sun protection).
  2. In a separate container, combine Part 1 (Water Phase).
  3. Slowly add Pro Polymer (Part 3) to Part 1 while continuously stirring or mixing until the Pro Polymer forms a gel/thickened consistency.
  4. Gradually pour Part 2 (the dispersed oil/sunscreen phase) into the mixture of Part 1+3 while mixing at medium speed until a smooth, uniform cream is formed.
  5. Add Preserve SC (Part 4) and mix until well combined.
  6. Adjust the pH of the formula to the appropriate range (Pro Polymer generally works well between pH 5-7).

Additional Recommendations:

  • To achieve a lightweight and non-whitening texture, ensure the sunscreen powders are dispersed as finely as possible in the Oil/Sunscreen Phase.
  • Other natural extracts that soothe the skin or antioxidants compatible with the formula can be added.
  • If higher SPF/PA values are desired, you may need to increase the amounts of Zinc Oxide Nano and/or Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™, which might affect the white cast. Adjusting proportions through testing is recommended.

We hope this sample formulation is helpful in developing your sunscreen product.

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