Natural Thickeners for Cosmetics

For cosmetic formulations, there are several natural or naturally-derived thickeners that can help increase viscosity and provide stability. The choice depends on whether you are thickening the water phase or the oil/silicone phase of your formulation.

Thickeners for the Water Phase

• CreamThick™ (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate): This is a naturally-derived starch that is easy to use and does not require heat. It works well in formulas with a pH range of 3-9 and is resistant to electrolytes. It creates a milky white gel texture and improves emulsion stability.
• CornThick™ (Corn Starch Modified For Gelling): Another natural origin starch, this thickener is also easy to use. It is dispersed in cold water and then heated to dissolve. It works in a pH range of 3-9, is resistant to electrolytes, and creates a semi-transparent gel texture.
• ClayThick™ (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Ultra Hydrate): This is a natural clay that acts as a thickener and significantly increases the stability of oil-in-water formulations, helping to prevent separation. It works across a wide pH range (2-13) and gives formulas a good, non-sticky texture.

Thickeners for the Oil/Silicone Phase

• Disteardimonium Hectorite: A naturally-derived clay thickener commonly used in makeup formulations. It provides good stability and feel. It needs to be dispersed in oil or silicone and activated with a polar additive like ethyl alcohol or propylene carbonate.
• Trihydroxystearin: Derived from castor oil, this ingredient provides thixotropic thickening to oils and silicones, suitable for various cosmetics, especially makeup. It helps improve stability in water-in-oil formulas and acts as a binder in powders.
• Emulsifying Beeswax (Non-Ionic, Natural): While primarily an emulsifier, this natural beeswax derivative also acts as a thickener, particularly suitable for creams, balms, and ointments. It dissolves in oil and works in a pH range of 3.0-10.0.
• Tribehenin (Soft Wax): This is a soft wax often used in place of natural waxes. It helps thicken the oil phase, provides shine in stick formulas, and improves pigment payoff in makeup.

When choosing a thickener, consider the type of formulation (water-based, oil-based, emulsion), the desired texture, pH requirements, and compatibility with other ingredients.