Understanding Nano-Liposomes and Skin Penetration

You've asked whether creams or serums must use nano-liposomes to deliver active ingredients into the skin effectively, and if ingredients won't work without them.

Here's a breakdown:

• What are Liposomes/Nano-Liposomes? In cosmetics, liposomes (and their smaller version, nano-liposomes) are tiny spherical vesicles made of lipid (fat-like) molecules. They are designed to encapsulate active ingredients.
• How are they claimed to work? The idea is that these lipid vesicles can help protect sensitive ingredients, improve their stability, and potentially enhance their penetration into the skin layers because the liposome structure is similar to the skin's cell membranes.
• Are they necessary for all ingredients? No, they are not strictly necessary for all active ingredients to penetrate the skin. Skin penetration is a complex process influenced by many factors, including:
  • Ingredient Properties: The size, molecular weight, solubility (whether it dissolves in water or oil), and polarity of the active ingredient itself.
  • Formulation: The base of the cream or serum (e.g., oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, gel), the presence of penetration enhancers, and the overall composition of the product.
  • Skin Condition: The integrity of the skin barrier, hydration levels, and skin temperature.

While delivery systems like liposomes can be beneficial for certain ingredients (especially those that are unstable, poorly soluble, or have difficulty penetrating the skin barrier on their own) and can potentially improve their efficacy, they are not the only way for ingredients to enter the skin.

Many active ingredients, depending on their properties and the product's formulation, can and do penetrate the skin to some extent without being encapsulated in liposomes.

Conclusion: The claim that active ingredients cannot enter the skin or will have little to no effect without being in a nano-liposome form is an oversimplification. While nano-liposomes are one type of delivery system that can enhance penetration and stability for some ingredients, the effectiveness of a cream or serum depends on the overall formulation, the specific active ingredients used, and how well they are formulated together, not solely on the presence of nano-liposomes.