Night Cream Formula Review for Anti-Aging and Brightening (30+ Skin)

Question

I want to make a night cream for skin aged 30+ that shows clear results in:

Reducing existing wrinkles
Preventing new wrinkles
Providing moisture
Making skin bright and pinkish-white

The desired texture is a non-greasy cream with a light floral scent. It should be suitable for sensitive skin and non-comedogenic.

I have drafted a formula with the following ingredients and percentages:

Ectoine 5%
Repair Activator 5%
DPHP 5%
Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
safety B3 5%
GlucoBright 5%
Orange Peel Extract 5%
Grape Seed Extract 8%
Allantoin 2%
Pure-Phytosterol 2%
Natural PHA 1%
Hydro Urea powder 3%
Light Cream Maker 1.5%
Laurocapram 2%
Rose petal 10%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
sterile water 38%

I plan to use this in conjunction with a day cream serum from a previous topic. Will the cream texture and properties match my design? Should the active ingredients be complementary or completely different? Are there any synergistic effects? Should I adjust the ingredient ratios?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Thank you for submitting your night cream formula for review. It's a comprehensive formula targeting multiple signs of aging for skin aged 30+.

Here's an evaluation of your proposed formula based on your goals:

Strengths of the Formula:

Anti-Aging: The combination of Ectoine, Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), DPHP, Glycosaminoglycans, Niacinamide, and Natural PHA provides a multi-faceted approach to reducing existing wrinkles and preventing new ones through hydration, collagen support, barrier repair, and gentle renewal.
Moisturizing: Ingredients like Ectoine, Glycosaminoglycans, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Phytosterol, Natural PHA, and Hydroxyethyl Urea offer excellent hydration and support the skin barrier.
Brightening: Niacinamide and GlucoBright (Glucosamine N-Acetyl) are a well-known synergistic pair for improving skin tone and reducing dark spots. Antioxidants like Grape Seed Extract also contribute to a brighter complexion by protecting the skin.
Texture & Scent: Using Light Cream Maker is appropriate for a non-greasy cream texture. The inclusion of Rose petal (assuming Rose Water or extract) addresses the desire for a light floral scent.

Points to Consider & Potential Adjustments:

Total Percentage: The percentages listed sum to 101.5%. Please adjust the percentage of sterile water to balance the formula to 100%. Based on your list, sterile water should be 36.5%.
Suitability for Sensitive Skin: While several ingredients are soothing (Allantoin, Phytosterol, PHA), the formula includes ingredients that could potentially cause irritation for sensitive skin:
- Laurocapram (2%): This is a penetration enhancer used to help actives absorb better. At 2%, it is a relatively high concentration and can increase the risk of irritation, especially with other actives present. Consider reducing this to 0.5-1% or omitting it if sensitivity is a primary concern.
- Botanical Extracts (Orange Peel 5%, Grape Seed 8%, Rose petal 10%): While beneficial, high concentrations of botanical extracts can sometimes irritate sensitive skin depending on the specific extract and its composition.
- Niacinamide (5%): While generally well-tolerated, some individuals with sensitive skin may experience flushing or mild irritation at this concentration.
  
  Given these factors, we strongly recommend performing a patch test before using the full product, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Synergy: As mentioned, Niacinamide and GlucoBright have known synergy for brightening. Many of the anti-aging ingredients also work synergistically by supporting different aspects of skin health (hydration, barrier, collagen, protection).
Day vs. Night Actives: Using complementary actives in day and night products is a good strategy to provide comprehensive care. The actives you've chosen are suitable for night repair and renewal.

Conclusion:
Your formula is a potent blend for anti-aging, hydration, and brightening. To ensure it meets all your requirements, particularly for sensitive skin, please adjust the water percentage and carefully consider the concentration of Laurocapram. A patch test is highly recommended. The texture should be a light cream as desired.

We can proceed with reviewing this formula for production once the percentages are corrected and you are comfortable with the potential sensitivity considerations.