Night Cream Formula Review

Your formula includes a good selection of active ingredients targeting various concerns like anti-aging (peptides, Madecassoside, Beta Glucan), hydration (Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate), brightening (Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, TXC™), soothing (Natural Bisabolol, Madecassoside-80), and skin renewal (Yeast Resurface, Yeast Radiance™). The inclusion of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is helpful for enhancing the penetration of these active ingredients.

Let's address your specific questions:

1. Is ingredient #15 (Water-Capsule™) suitable for a cream texture?

Yes, Water-Capsule™ is designed as a water-in-oil emulsifier specifically suitable for creating cream formulas, including night creams. Its unique property allows you to create a water-in-oil cream texture using a relatively low amount of oil (5-20%), which helps to make the cream less sticky compared to traditional water-in-oil emulsions.

However, based on the instructions for Water-Capsule™, to achieve a proper cream texture, you typically need to include a "Light Cream Maker" or "Satin Mousse" in the water phase. These ingredients help to create a gel structure in the water phase before the oil phase (containing Water-Capsule™ and oils) is added and mixed. Your current formula does not list a Light Cream Maker or Satin Mousse. You may need to add one of these ingredients to ensure you achieve the desired cream consistency with Water-Capsule™.

2. What should ingredients #17 (Distilled Water) and #18 (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) be like?

• Distilled Water (#17): Using purified or sterile distilled water, such as Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM, is appropriate and recommended for cosmetic formulations to ensure purity and avoid introducing contaminants. Your inclusion of 20% distilled water is suitable.
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (#18): There are different types available. The standard Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera) often contains Butylene Glycol, which provides some preservative effect. There is also a version that is Glycol Free, Glycerin Free, and Preservative Free, designed for very sensitive skin. Both types are suitable for use in your formula at 20%. However, the choice impacts your preservation needs (see below). The description for the standard type notes it may develop a smell over time due to fermentation if not properly preserved, highlighting the importance of adequate preservation.

3. Does this formula need a preservative?

Yes, absolutely. Your formula contains a significant amount of water (20% distilled water + 20% Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, plus water content from other liquid ingredients) and several ferment-based ingredients (Repair Activator™, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Yeast Resurface, Yeast Radiance™, Beta Glucan). Water-based formulas, especially those containing ingredients derived from fermentation or natural sources, are highly susceptible to microbial growth (bacteria, yeast, mold).

Without a broad-spectrum preservative, your product will likely spoil quickly, potentially within days or weeks, leading to changes in color, odor, texture, and posing a risk of skin infection if contaminated.

You must add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative to protect your formula. When choosing a preservative, consider the pH range of your final formula. Some suitable options based on typical cosmetic pH ranges include:

• Global Guard™ 221: A globally approved, water-soluble broad-spectrum preservative effective at pH 2-7. Use rate 0.5-1.1%.
• Mild Preserved™ COS: A broad-spectrum, water-soluble, odorless preservative effective in a wide pH range of 2-8. Use rate 0.75-1.5%.
• NaturePreserve™ LB2: A natural origin, water-soluble anti-bacterial agent effective against bacteria and fungi at low pH values (2.0-6.5). Use rate 0.5-1.0%.

Always follow the recommended usage rate and mixing instructions for the specific preservative you choose. It is also highly recommended to perform a challenge test on your final formula to confirm the preservative system is effective.

Summary of Recommendations:

1. Consider adding a Light Cream Maker or Satin Mousse to the water phase to help achieve the desired cream texture with Water-Capsule™.
2. Ensure you are using Purified Water. Be aware of the type of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate you use (with or without preservative/glycol) as it affects the overall preservation needs.
3. Crucially, add a broad-spectrum preservative to your formula to prevent microbial contamination and spoilage. Choose one suitable for your formula's pH and follow the recommended usage rate.