Night Cream Formulation: Compatibility and Mixing Instructions

Asked by: kaka_barkar On: August 16, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to inquire about the compatibility and mixing procedure for a night cream formulation. The desired properties of the cream are:

  • Moisturizing
  • Skin strengthening
  • Skin whitening
  • Lifting/Firming
  • Reducing irritation/allergy

The formulation is as follows:

  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder) 2%
  • 4D Hyaluronic Acid 10%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • Horse Oil (สกัด/บริสุทธิ์) 5%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 3%
  • Glycerin 99.5% 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • น้ำหอม 0.2%
  • น้ำเปล่า 62.3%

Please advise on the compatibility of these ingredients and the correct steps for mixing.

Answer

Night Cream Formulation Review and Mixing Instructions

Based on the ingredients you've provided for your night cream formulation, here is a review of the compatibility and suggested mixing instructions.

Ingredient Compatibility

Most of the water-soluble ingredients in your formula, such as GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Panthenol, 4D Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, and Glycerin, are generally compatible with each other and can be mixed in the water phase.

DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid is also water-soluble but should be added in the cooling phase due to its temperature sensitivity. It is noted to work well with Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), which is a good combination for your formula's goals.

Horse Oil is an oil-soluble ingredient and will form the oil phase of your cream.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that can be added in the cooling phase.

Important Compatibility Notes:

  • Missing Emulsifier: Your current formula lists water-soluble ingredients and one oil-soluble ingredient (Horse Oil) but does not include an emulsifier. To create a stable cream (an emulsion of oil and water), you must add a suitable emulsifier. Without an emulsifier, the oil and water phases will separate.
  • High Phenoxyethanol Concentration: The 4D Hyaluronic Acid product you are using already contains 0.8% Phenoxyethanol. Adding another 1% Phenoxyethanol brings the total concentration to 1.8%. The recommended usage rate for Phenoxyethanol is typically 0.5-1.0%. A concentration of 1.8% is quite high and may increase the risk of skin irritation, especially when combined with DMAE, which can also be irritating for some skin types. You may want to consider reducing the amount of added Phenoxyethanol.

Mixing Instructions

Assuming you will add a suitable emulsifier to your formula, here are the general steps for mixing your night cream:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: In a beaker, combine the water, Glycerin, GlucoBright, Safe-B3, Panthenol, and Allantoin. Stir to dissolve the powders. If needed to fully dissolve Allantoin, you can gently warm this phase (do not exceed 75°C and minimize heating time to protect heat-sensitive ingredients like GlucoBright and Safe-B3).
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate beaker, combine the Horse Oil and your chosen emulsifier. Heat this phase according to the requirements of your emulsifier (typically around 70-80°C).
  3. Combine Phases: Once both phases are heated, slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring continuously with a homogenizer or high-shear mixer to form the emulsion.
  4. Cooling Phase: Switch to a regular overhead stirrer and continue stirring the mixture as it cools down.
  5. Add 4D Hyaluronic Acid: When the emulsion has cooled to around 40°C or below, add the 4D Hyaluronic Acid and stir until it is fully dispersed and the mixture is homogeneous.
  6. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the temperature is below 40°C, add the DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, Phenoxyethanol, and Fragrance. Stir well to ensure even distribution.
  7. Final Check: Check the final pH of the cream and adjust if necessary to be within the optimal range for the ingredients (e.g., 4.0-7.0).

Ingredient Benefits

This formulation includes ingredients known for various skin benefits:

  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) and Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): Work together to help with skin whitening and reducing dark spots. Niacinamide also helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduce redness, control oil, and has anti-aging effects.
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): Known for its moisturizing, soothing, and skin-strengthening properties.
  • 4D Hyaluronic Acid: Provides multi-level hydration to the skin, improving moisture retention, smoothness, and elasticity.
  • Allantoin: Helps to reduce irritation, soothe the skin, and support tissue regeneration.
  • Horse Oil: Aids in restoring moisture, softening the skin, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: Helps to reduce wrinkles, tighten skin, and provides antioxidant benefits.

Remember to perform a small test batch first and adjust the formulation as needed.