Night Serum Formulation for Dry, Peeling Skin and Acne Redness

Question

I am looking for a nighttime serum formulation for dry, peeling skin with redness from acne, especially after using acne treatments. I understand Ceramide helps with the skin barrier, but I'm interested in alternative ingredients with similar properties. I have NMAA, Beta Glucan, and Sodium Lactate Plus. I also have rose hip oil. Should I use aloe vera or hyaluronic acid as a base? My skin is primarily dry, peeling, and has acne redness.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Night Serum Formulation for Dry, Peeling Skin and Redness from Acne

Based on your concerns about dry, peeling skin and redness from acne after using acne treatments, restoring the skin barrier and boosting hydration are key. To create a moisturizing nighttime serum that helps strengthen your skin, consider these ingredients:

Serum Base: We recommend using a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base as a foundation. Hyaluronic Acid is excellent at retaining moisture in the skin, making it ideal for dry and dehydrated skin.
Skin Barrier Support (Alternative to Ceramide): Since Ceramide has shelf-life limitations, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) is a great alternative. Niacinamide stimulates the skin's natural ceramide production and strengthens the skin barrier, reducing water loss and making the skin more resilient to external factors.
Intensive Moisturization: To address dryness and peeling, adding Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (NMAA) is recommended. This blend of amino acids mimics the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF), helping the skin stay hydrated and soft. For maximum hydration, you could also include Sodium Lactate Plus.
Redness Reduction and Skin Healing: Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) has anti-inflammatory properties, helps reduce redness, and promotes wound healing by stimulating new skin tissue growth. It is particularly beneficial for skin with acne scars and redness.
Soy Isoflavones: Regarding your interest in the properties of soy isoflavones, you can add Isoflaqua™ (Water Soluble Soy Isoflavones) to the formulation. Soy isoflavones have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin barrier enhancing properties.

Recommended Formulation Summary:

Combine these ingredients in a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base:

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (NMAA)
Vitamin B5 (Panthenol)
Isoflaqua™ (Water Soluble Soy Isoflavones)
(Optionally add Sodium Lactate Plus for maximum hydration)

Beta Glucan is another good option that helps strengthen skin and reduce irritation. If your skin is also red and irritated, you might consider adding Beta Glucan to the formula.

As for the Rose Hip Oil you've ordered, you can use it on its own or mix it into the serum. However, observe if it tends to cause new breakouts, as skin that has recently recovered from acne might still be prone to them.

This formulation focuses on restoring unbalanced skin, providing deep hydration, strengthening the skin barrier, and effectively reducing redness from acne.