Non-Sticky Biphasic Face Oil Formulation
Question
I am looking for a face oil formulation that is non-sticky and not overly greasy. I would like it to be similar to Clarins Double Serum, specifically a 'double serum' with a hydric (water) and lipidic (oil) system. Can such a face oil formulation include water?
Answer
For a non-sticky, non-greasy Face Oil formula similar to Clarins Double Serum, which features both hydric and lipidic systems, we recommend the following approach using key ingredients that provide a light and fast-absorbing texture.
Clarins Double Serum is a biphasic serum that separates into a water (hydric) phase and an oil (lipidic) phase, which combine when shaken before use. This delivers nourishing properties from both water and oil without feeling heavy on the skin.
Non-Greasy Face Oil Formula Concept (Hydric + Lipidic System)
To achieve a light, non-greasy Face Oil that can incorporate water, we suggest using Silky Serum Base Plus as a core component. It is a light, soft, smooth, and quickly absorbing serum base that can effectively coordinate both oil and water, resulting in a serum that feels silky and leaves no greasy residue.
Recommended Ingredients:
- Silky Serum Base Plus (ID 710): Use as the main base to create a light serum texture and help combine water and oil. It provides a soft, smooth feel and absorbs quickly.
- LipidSoft™ Lite (ID 530): A very light, non-greasy emollient that does not clog pores. It is suitable for formulas requiring extreme lightness and can replace silicones.
- Shea Butter Light Oil (ID 669): A light, non-greasy oil derived from Shea Butter that is easily absorbed into the skin while retaining the moisturizing and soothing properties of Shea Butter.
- Isododecane (Ultra Lite) (ID 7915): An ultra-lightweight emollient that evaporates quickly, leaves no greasy residue, and does not clog pores. Ideal for oil-free formulas needing extra lightness and a dry feel.
- Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor) (ID 127514): A special light, odor-free dimethicone that helps coat the skin softly and smoothly for a long time without stickiness.
General Mixing Guidelines (Approximate):
You can adjust the proportions based on your desired texture and concentration:
- Lipidic Phase: Combine Silky Serum Base Plus with light oils/emollients such as LipidSoft™ Lite, Shea Butter Light Oil, Isododecane (Ultra Lite), and Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor) in appropriate ratios (Silky Serum Base Plus can accommodate up to 30% oil and silicones in the formula).
- Hydric Phase: Prepare water and other water-soluble ingredients.
- Phase Combination: Gradually add the water phase to the oil phase containing Silky Serum Base Plus then stir or blend continuously until the desired serum texture is achieved. Silky Serum Base Plus can accommodate 30-90% water in the formula; higher water content will result in a thicker serum that still absorbs quickly.
Alternative for Water-in-Oil System:
If you prefer to create a water-in-oil system with a light and non-greasy feel, you can consider using Luxe XO (ID 127154). This is a silicone-free water-in-oil emulsifier that creates extremely stable emulsions with various textures, applying easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin. It is ideal for formulas with high oil content.
By utilizing these ingredients, you can formulate a Face Oil that is light, fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and comfortable on the skin, similar to the biphasic serum you are looking for.
Follow-up Replies
Question:
I am developing a face oil formulation and have the following questions:
- Is it necessary to include a preservative in a face oil formulation?
- Could you provide an example formulation for a face oil?
- Regarding the basic ratios in the example formulation, can they be adjusted? I am particularly interested in incorporating
Avocado Oilinto the formula.
Answer:
Yes, for any face oil formulation that includes water, it is absolutely necessary to add a preservative. Water provides an environment for microbial growth (bacteria, yeast, and mold), which can spoil your product, make it unsafe for use, and reduce its shelf life. Even if the water content is low, a preservative is crucial.
You can definitely adjust the basic ratios to achieve your desired texture and feel. Adding Avocado Oil is a great idea as it offers excellent moisturizing and nourishing benefits.
Here is an example of a basic formulation for a non-greasy, biphasic face oil, incorporating Avocado Oil and a suitable preservative:
Example Face Oil Formulation (Biphasic System)
This formula aims for a light, non-greasy feel with both oil and water phases.
Ingredients:
Phase A (Oil Phase)
- Silky Serum Base Plus: 15.0% (Provides the light serum texture and helps combine oil and water)
- LipidSoft™ Lite: 10.0% (Very light emollient, non-greasy)
- Shea Butter Light Oil: 5.0% (Light, easily absorbed moisturizing oil)
- Isododecane (Ultra Lite): 5.0% (Ultra-light, fast-evaporating emollient)
- Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor): 2.0% (For a smooth, non-sticky feel)
- Avocado Oil (Refined): 5.0% (Nourishing oil, as requested)
Phase B (Water Phase)
- Water (Distilled/Deionized): 56.0% (Hydric phase)
- Magnesium Sulfate: 1.0% (Helps stabilize the emulsion, as recommended for Silky Serum Base Plus)
- Mild Preserved Eco™: 1.0% (Broad-spectrum preservative, gentle and odorless)
Total: 100.0%
Mixing Steps:
- Prepare Phase A: Combine Silky Serum Base Plus, LipidSoft™ Lite, Shea Butter Light Oil, Isododecane (Ultra Lite), Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor), and Avocado Oil (Refined) in a container. Stir or blend well until thoroughly mixed.
- Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, combine water, Magnesium Sulfate, and Mild Preserved Eco™. Stir until all ingredients are fully dissolved.
- Combine Phases: While continuously stirring or blending Phase A, slowly add Phase B to Phase A in small increments. Continue stirring until the mixture becomes a homogeneous, stable serum. If you have a high-speed blender, you can add the water phase at once and blend for 5-10 minutes at a minimum speed of 500 rpm.
Important Notes:
- Adjusting Ratios: Yes, you can absolutely adjust the ratios.
- For a thicker serum: Increase the percentage of water. Silky Serum Base Plus can accommodate 30-90% water.
- For a more liquid serum: You can slightly reduce the water or increase the volatile emollients like Isododecane (Ultra Lite) or Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor).
- For more oil benefits: You can increase the percentage of Avocado Oil or other preferred light oils, ensuring the total oil/silicone content does not exceed 30% of the formula when using Silky Serum Base Plus.
- Preservative: Always perform a challenge test on your final formulation to ensure the preservative system is effective for your specific product and packaging.
- Storage: Store the finished product in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat, to maintain its stability and efficacy.
Related Products Mentioned
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
Shea Butter Light Oil
Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)
Isododecane (Ultra Lite)
Luxe XO (Water-in-Oil, Non-Volatile)
Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor)
Avocado Oil (Refined)
