Formulation Questions Answered

Here are the answers to your formulation questions:

1. Ratio of PPG-3 Myristyl Ether to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA: A specific ratio for dissolving Phytosphingosine SA using PPG-3 Myristyl Ether is not available. However, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether is known to be an effective solvent for oil-soluble ingredients like Phytosphingosine SA, helping to enhance absorption. For reference, when using Octyldodecanol to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA, a ratio of 6-7% Octyldodecanol is recommended for 0.1% Phytosphingosine SA, and 12-14% Octyldodecanol for 0.2% Phytosphingosine SA. You would need to determine the appropriate amount of PPG-3 Myristyl Ether through testing to ensure complete dissolution of 0.2% Phytosphingosine SA in your specific formula.

2. Dissolving power of PPG-3 Myristyl Ether vs. Octyldodecanol: PPG-3 Myristyl Ether has better dissolving properties compared to Octyldodecanol. This is because PPG-3 Myristyl Ether is a highly polar ester, which makes it more effective at dissolving a wider range of oil-soluble substances.

3. Compatibility of the proposed oil-based facial formula: The proposed formula is generally compatible. All the ingredients you listed are suitable for an oil-based system. However, it is crucial to ensure that the Phytosphingosine SA is completely dissolved. This requires heating the oil phase containing Phytosphingosine SA and PPG-3 Myristyl Ether to 80-90°C and blending thoroughly until no precipitate remains. If you observe separation of the oil phase after mixing and cooling, you can add 1-2% Oil Blender™ to help improve the stability and blend the different oils/esters together.

Your proposed formula:

• Phytosphingosine SA 0.2%
• Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 5%
• PPG-3 Myristyl Ether (sufficient amount to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA and blend oils)
• Protec™ OX 0.02%
• Protec™ UV 0.1%
• Squalane (Olive) to 100%