Oil Blend Formula for Steroid-Dependent Skin: Ingredient Compatibility and Stability

Asked by: shopslim On: April 06, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have formulated an oil blend intended for steroid-dependent skin with the following ingredients:

  • Squalane (Olive) 49.99 %
  • Rose Hip Oil 30 %
  • LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate) 10 %
  • Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 3%
  • Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid (from Licorice) 2 %
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V 2 %
  • Alpha Bisabolol 1 %
  • FastRelief™ 2%
  • Vitamin E Acetate 0.01%

I have the following questions about this formula:

  1. Can these ingredients be mixed together?
  2. Will the resulting texture be heavier?
  3. If Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 3% is removed, will it significantly affect the formula or its effectiveness?
  4. From the formula above, can I add water-soluble extracts? (e.g., Atopi-Telmesteine™, Reservoir-Tech, Plankton GP4G™ dissolved in Ethoxydiglycol 5% and then added to the formula).

Answer

Based on your questions and the staff's response:

  1. Can the ingredients be mixed together?
    Yes, the ingredients can be mixed together if you remove the Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin). As the staff explained, Phospholipid requires both water and oil to dissolve and act as an emulsifier. In an oil-only formula like this, it will not dissolve properly.

  2. Will the resulting texture be heavier?
    The resulting texture will be an oil blend. It will not become heavier in the sense of becoming a cream or lotion. The specific feel will depend on the combination of oils used, but it will remain an oil. Adding Oil Blender (as suggested by staff) helps keep the oils mixed but doesn't change it from an oil texture.

  3. If Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 3% is removed, will it significantly affect the formula or its effectiveness?
    Removing Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) means the formula will lose the potential penetration enhancing effect that Phospholipid might offer. However, its removal is necessary for the ingredients to mix properly in an oil-only system. The other ingredients in your formula are still beneficial for skin health and soothing.

  4. From the formula above, can we mix water-soluble extracts? (e.g., Atopi-Telmesteine™, Reservoir-Tech, Plankton GP4G™ dissolved in Ethoxydiglycol 5% and then added to the formula).
    No, you cannot add water-soluble extracts dissolved in Ethoxydiglycol to this oil-only formula and expect it to mix stably. As the staff mentioned, this formula does not contain water, and adding a solution of water-soluble ingredients (even in a solvent like Ethoxydiglycol) would likely cause separation or instability. To incorporate water-soluble ingredients, you would need to create a different type of formula, such as an emulsion (which contains both oil and water phases and requires emulsifiers like Phospholipid, but used in a different way than in your original oil-only concept).

Overall Suitability:
The modified formula (removing Phospholipid and FastRelief, potentially adding Oil Blender for stability) containing Squalane, Rose Hip Oil, LipidSoft™ F, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, SKIN-DEFENSE® V, Alpha Bisabolol, and Vitamin E Acetate is well-suited for your goal of strengthening the skin barrier, reducing irritation and allergies, and supporting skin recovery, which is beneficial for steroid-dependent skin. These ingredients provide essential fatty acids, soothing properties, and barrier support.