Oil Control Water Essence Formulation Issues

Question

For an oil control water essence formula to be used before moisturizer: Will combining L-Carnitine 3% with Zinc PCA 1% cause precipitation? If Sodium Hyaluronate Standard 0.1% is used as a thickener, will it provide sufficient viscosity? (Note: The user is developing a formula for oily skin and is concerned about texture.)

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Re: Oil Control Water Essence Formula

Hello,

Regarding your formula for an oil control water essence to be used before moisturizer:

Based on the staff's advice, your proposed formula, especially Phase 2 containing [Product 718: FloraSolve Clear] and [Product 920: AcneBee Extra], might not be ideal for oily skin. These ingredients are less water-soluble and typically require emulsification, which can contribute to a sticky or heavy feel, contrary to your goal of a light, fast-absorbing product. The high concentration of [Product 718: FloraSolve Clear] (4%) is particularly noted as potentially causing stickiness.

For a truly light, non-greasy water essence suitable for oily skin, the staff recommends focusing on water-soluble ingredients. They suggested increasing the concentration of [Product 69: Licorice Extract] to 1% and [Product 157: L-Carnitine] to 3%, and potentially adding [Product 74: Safe-B3] at 2-3%. These ingredients are well-suited for a water-based formula and target oil control and other benefits without adding greasiness.

Regarding your question about mixing [Product 157: L-Carnitine] 3% and [Product 252: Zinc PCA] 1%, the staff confirmed that using high amounts of both together might cause precipitation. They recommend testing at lower concentrations first, such as 1% of each.

For thickening, you asked about [Product 79: Sodium Hyaluronate Standard]. The staff advises against using standard molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid for oily skin as it can feel sticky. Instead, they recommend using [Product 1282: AnyGel] at around 0.1% or [Product 404: Nano Molecule Hyaluronic Acid] if you prefer Hyaluronic Acid, as these options provide viscosity with a lighter feel.

Therefore, instead of the two-phase approach with oil-soluble components, a formulation focusing on water-soluble actives like increased [Product 69: Licorice Extract], [Product 157: L-Carnitine], [Product 252: Zinc PCA] (at suitable concentrations), and potentially [Product 74: Safe-B3], thickened with [Product 1282: AnyGel] or [Product 404: Nano Molecule Hyaluronic Acid] would likely better achieve your goal of a light, non-greasy water essence for oil control.