Oil-Controlling Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Formulation with Texture Improvement
Question
I am looking for a formula for an oil-controlling sunscreen with SPF 50 PA+++. I want to improve the texture to be lighter and less sticky. I am also considering using Zinc PCA in the formula. Could you provide a suitable formula and advise on ingredient compatibility, especially regarding Zinc PCA and emulsifiers?
Answer
Based on your goal of creating an oil-controlling sunscreen with SPF 50 PA+++ and the discussion with the staff, here is the recommended formula:
Recommended Sunscreen Formula (Oil Control, SPF 50 PA+++)
- Distilled water: Remaining part (to make 100%)
- SPF Protect Ultra: 25%
- Matte Silica: 5%
- Milk Lotion Maker: 5%
- LipidSoft Lite: 12%
- Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 3%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): 1%
- PowderCream: 3-5% (as needed)
Explanation and Notes:
- SPF Protect Ultra: Provides the necessary SPF 50 PA+++ protection.
- Matte Silica & PowderCream: These ingredients are included to help absorb excess oil and provide a lighter, less greasy feel, addressing your goal of oil control.
- Milk Lotion Maker & LipidSoft Lite: The staff recommended changing from Light Cream Maker to Milk Lotion Maker because the total oil phase (including SPF Protect Ultra and LipidSoft Lite) is higher than what Light Cream Maker can effectively emulsify (Light Cream Maker handles up to 20% oil, while this formula has over 37% oil). LipidSoft Lite also helps dissolve SPF Protect Ultra and reduces tackiness.
- Safe-B3: This is a suitable ingredient for a day cream formula and can help with various skin concerns. As the staff mentioned, Azelaic Acid is generally more suitable for night use due to its exfoliating properties.
- Zinc PCA: While beneficial for oil control, Zinc PCA is an electrolyte and can destabilize formulas made with certain emulsifiers like Light Cream Maker. The staff suggested using an electrolyte-tolerant emulsifier like Butter Cream Maker or adding Pro Polymer if you wish to include Zinc PCA in the future, but for a beginner, it's recommended to start with the simpler formula.
- Preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA): Essential for preventing microbial growth.
- Fragrance: You can add a small amount of fragrance. It can be added to the oil phase or stirred into the finished cream.
Regarding the mixing steps, generally, you would combine the water phase ingredients, combine the oil phase ingredients, heat them separately if necessary, and then combine and emulsify, followed by adding heat-sensitive ingredients like the preservative and fragrance after cooling. Specific detailed steps for this exact formula would depend on the nature of each ingredient and the recommended method for the emulsifier used (Milk Lotion Maker).
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)
PowderCream™ (Water Absorbing PMMA)
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)