Oil Formulation Stability and Layering with Niacinamide Serum

Asked by: thawatch2203 On: November 02, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask about the following formulation:

  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 10%
  • Bakuchiol 1%
  • Squalene 89%

Will this formulation separate? And are the ingredients compatible?

Also, if I use this formulation together with another serum that contains Niacinamide, will there be any problems? I am concerned about the interaction between Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.

Answer

Analysis of Your Formulation and Ingredient Compatibility

Based on the ingredients you've listed and their properties, here's an analysis of your facial oil formulation and the potential interaction with a Niacinamide serum:

Your Facial Oil Formulation (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 10%, Bakuchiol 1%, Squalene 89%)

  1. Will the formulation separate?

    • Your formulation consists of Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Bakuchiol), and Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss).
    • Since all components are oil-soluble and are being mixed in an oil base (Squalene), the formulation is expected to be stable and should not separate. The ingredients should dissolve well in the Squalene.
  2. Compatibility of ingredients within the formulation:

    • Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Bakuchiol), and Squalene are generally compatible when formulated together in an oil base. There are no known significant incompatibilities between these ingredients in this type of system.

Interaction with a Niacinamide Serum

  • You are concerned about the interaction between Niacinamide (in a separate serum, likely Safe-B3™) and Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate).
  • The product description for Perfect-C™ advises against using it with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) in the formula. This warning is primarily for formulating them together in the same product, especially in water-based systems where pH can be a factor leading to the formation of Niacin and potential flushing.
  • However, you are using a Niacinamide serum (likely water-based, as Niacinamide is water-soluble) and your oil-based facial oil as separate products. When applied sequentially, these products exist in different phases on the skin, which significantly minimizes direct chemical interaction compared to mixing them in a single formula.
  • Furthermore, Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is an oil-soluble ester form of Vitamin C. It is chemically different from L-Ascorbic Acid and is not acidic in the same way. It is generally more stable and less reactive than L-Ascorbic Acid.
  • Given that Perfect-C™ is oil-soluble and less reactive than L-Ascorbic Acid, and the products are applied separately, a significant interaction leading to issues like flushing from Niacin formation is unlikely.

In summary, your facial oil formulation is likely to be stable and the ingredients compatible. Using it alongside a Niacinamide serum is generally considered safe, and the risk of interaction between Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) and Niacinamide is minimal when applied separately, especially compared to L-Ascorbic Acid. While the product description advises against mixing them in a formula, sequential application is typically not an issue. However, individual skin sensitivity can vary.