Oil Rancidity in Cosmetics

Asked by: nathasruang.nan On: January 06, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Which cosmetic oils from the provided list are prone to rancidity, and what are the best methods to prevent or solve this issue, including whether reducing the oil concentration is an effective solution?

Answer

Subject: Oil Rancidity in Cosmetics

Oils that tend to become rancid (undergo oxidation) in cosmetics are typically those high in Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs), as these fatty acids are sensitive to oxidation when exposed to air, heat, light, or heavy metals.

From the list of oils you provided, those more likely to cause rancidity include:

  • Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed): Very high in PUFAs, especially Linoleic Acid.
  • Sunflower Oil (High Omega, Refined): Although refined, if it's a High Omega type (meaning high in Linoleic Acid), it is still susceptible to oxidation.
  • Rice Bran Oil (High Omega, Refined): Contains both monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats. If it's a High Omega type, it has a tendency to become rancid.
  • Sweet Almond Oil (Cold-Pressed): Contains both monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (Oleic and Linoleic). It has moderate stability, but the Cold-Pressed type might be more susceptible to oxidation than refined.

Oils that are more stable and less likely to become rancid include:

  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: Primarily saturated fatty acids (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), very high stability.
  • Jojoba Oil (Clear - Deodorized): A liquid wax, not a triglyceride, very high stability.
  • Olive CLEAR (Hydrogenated Olive Oil): Undergoes hydrogenation, increasing saturation and stability.
  • Avocado Oil (Refined): Primarily monounsaturated fatty acids (Oleic Acid), relatively good stability.
  • Macadamia Nut Oil (Deodorized): Primarily monounsaturated fatty acids (Oleic Acid) and Palmitoleic Acid, relatively good stability.

How to Solve and Prevent Rancidity:

  1. Choose More Stable Oils: If possible, opt for oils high in saturated or monounsaturated fatty acids instead of those high in PUFAs.
  2. Add Antioxidants: This is the most effective way to slow down rancidity. Common antioxidants used in cosmetics include:
    • Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
    • Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE)
    • BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene)
    • BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole)

      Add them in appropriate amounts according to the antioxidant supplier's recommendations.
  3. Proper Storage: Store products in a cool, dark place in airtight containers to minimize exposure to heat, light, and air.
  4. Minimize Exposure to Catalysts: Avoid exposure to high heat, sunlight, and heavy metals (like iron, copper), which can accelerate oxidation.
  5. Use Fresh Ingredients: Check the expiry date and condition of the oils before use.

Should You Reduce the Amount?

Reducing the amount of oils prone to rancidity might help slow it down, but it doesn't address the root cause. If the formula still contains susceptible oils, adding antioxidants and ensuring proper storage are more effective preventative measures.

Therefore, instead of reducing the amount of oil needed in your formula (which might affect product properties), focus primarily on using antioxidants and ensuring good manufacturing and storage practices.