Oil Thickeners and Pigments for Natural Oil-Based Lip Gloss

Question

I am developing a lip gloss formulation using natural oils and pigments. I would like to know: Which Oil Thick™ (oil-based gelling agent) is most suitable for natural oils to prevent color sedimentation? Could you recommend specific colors or pigments suitable for lip gloss, particularly a deep red shade (referencing a previous discussion about deep red for body oil)? What are the recommended steps for mixing these ingredients to ensure stability and high shine?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

For a lip gloss formulation using natural oils (which are polar oils) and pigments, choosing the right oil thickener is crucial to prevent color sedimentation and achieve the desired texture. Here are the recommendations:

1. Recommended Oil Thick™ Products

To prevent color sedimentation, you need a thickener that provides "Pigment Suspension" properties:

Oil Thick™ Soft (Dextrin Palmitate): This is the most popular choice for lip gloss. It creates a soft, smooth oil gel that feels great on the lips. It is excellent at suspending pigments and preventing them from settling at the bottom. The resulting texture is translucent (semi-clear).
Oil Thick™ Clear P: If you want a completely clear lip gloss base while using natural oils, this is the best choice. It is specifically designed for polar oils (like natural oils and esters) and provides enough viscosity to hold glitters or pigments in place.
Oil Thick™ Hard: You can use this in combination with the Soft version (e.g., 1-2%) if you want to increase the "body" or firmness of the gloss to prevent it from being too runny.

2. Recommended Colors for Lip Gloss

For lip gloss, pigments that disperse well in oil are preferred. The EasyMix™ series is highly recommended because they can be stirred in by hand without needing high-shear equipment:

Deep Red: D&C Red No.7 Lake (ID 361) provides a beautiful, classic deep red shade.
Bright Red: D&C Red No.6 Lake EasyMix™ or D&C Red No.27 Lake EasyMix™ for vibrant, easy-to-disperse red tones.
Natural Red/Earth Tone: Red Iron Oxides EasyMix™ for a more muted, natural reddish-brown look.

Basic Formulation Steps:

Mix your natural oils with the chosen Oil Thick™ (Soft or Clear P).
Heat the mixture to 80-90°C until the thickener is completely dissolved and the liquid is clear.
Add the pigments (e.g., D&C Red No.7 Lake) while the mixture is still hot. Stir well to ensure even distribution.
Pour into containers and allow to cool. As it cools, it will set into a gel that keeps the colors suspended.

To add extra shine, you may consider adding LipidSoft™ Shine or Silicone Shine to the formula.