Optimizing Solubilization and Viscosity in Water-Based Essential Oil Pillow Spray

Asked by: Anonymous On: November 18, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Formulation Challenge: Water-Based Essential Oil Pillow Spray

I am formulating a water-based Essential Oil Pillow Spray using the following components:

  • Distilled Water
  • Essential oils (5%)
  • PEG-40 and Flora Solve™ Clear (Solubilizer ratio 3:1 relative to EO)
  • Fixative (5%)

I encountered issues after adding the Fixative:

  1. Cloudiness: When Fixative is added at 5%, the product becomes cloudy even when using a Solubilizer-to-EO ratio of 2:1 (which was clear before adding the Fixative).
  2. Viscosity: Increasing the Solubilizer-to-EO ratio to 3:1 (with 5% Fixative) results in slight cloudiness, while a 4:1 ratio (with 5% Fixative) results in a clear product that is highly viscous.

I need advice on the following:

  1. How can I achieve a clear and non-viscous final product?
  2. If I replace PEG-40 and Flora Solve™ Clear with Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate and Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, will this substitution yield a clear and non-viscous result?
  3. What non-irritating substance can be used to effectively enhance scent diffusion and longevity?

Answer

Based on your formulation issues, the problems of cloudiness and high viscosity stem from the increased total oil phase (Essential Oils + Fixative) and the high concentration of solubilizer required to keep this larger oil phase clear.

Your total oil phase is now $5\%$ Essential Oils $+ 5\%$ Fixative $= 10\%$. The original solubilizer ratio is no longer adequate for this new, larger oil phase.

1. How to achieve a clear and non-viscous product

The key is to reduce the total amount of solubilizer while maintaining clarity. This requires either:

  • Reducing the total oil phase: Lower the Fixative concentration from $5\%$ to $1-2\%$. This is often sufficient for a pillow spray and will significantly reduce the amount of solubilizer needed, thus lowering viscosity.
  • Using a higher-efficiency solubilizer: Switch to a solubilizer that can solubilize the $10\%$ oil phase at a lower Solubilizer-to-Oil (S:O) ratio.

Recommended Steps:

  1. Reduce Fixative: Try $5\%$ EO $+ 1-2\%$ Fixative (Total oil phase $6-7\%$).
  2. Re-test Solubilizer Ratio: Use your current solubilizer blend (PEG-40 + Flora Solve™ Clear) and test a new S:O ratio for the total oil phase ($6-7\%$). Start at $2:1$ and increase gradually until clear.
  3. If still viscous, switch to a high-performance solubilizer (see Q2).

The reason your $4:1$ ratio (which is $20\%$ solubilizer for $5\%$ EO, or $20\%$ solubilizer for $10\%$ total oil) is clear but viscous is that high concentrations of surfactants (solubilizers) form dense micellar structures in water, which inherently increases viscosity.

2. Switching to Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate and Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Yes, switching to Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (ID 7772) and Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (ID 6494) is highly recommended.

These are non-ionic, PEG-free solubilizers that are often milder and can be more efficient than traditional PEG-based solubilizers like PEG-40. Higher efficiency means you can achieve a clear solution at a lower S:O ratio, which directly addresses your viscosity problem.

Recommendation: Test a blend of these two Polyglyceryl solubilizers. Start with an S:O ratio of $1.5:1$ or $2:1$ for your new total oil phase ($10\%$ or $6-7\%$) and adjust as needed.

3. Non-irritating substances for diffusion and longevity

The best approach is to use a high-quality, low-irritation fixative at a minimal effective concentration.

  • For Longevity (Fixative): Consider using a specialized fragrance fixative like Flora Fix™ (long lasting fragrance) (ID 3344). This type of product is designed to extend the drydown and improve longevity without dominating the scent. Use it at a lower concentration, such as $1-2\%$, to minimize the impact on clarity and viscosity.
  • For Safety/Non-irritation: The Polyglyceryl-based solubilizers (Q2) are generally considered milder on the skin and less irritating than PEG-40, making them a better choice for a product that comes into contact with the skin and is inhaled.
  • For Diffusion: The diffusion (sillage or scent throw) is primarily determined by the volatility of the Essential Oils themselves. Ensure you have a balanced blend of top, middle, and base note EOs. The fixative (like Flora Fix™) will help the entire scent profile diffuse more evenly and last longer.

Summary of Relevant Products:

  • Flora Solve™ Clear (Fragrance Solubilizer) (ID 718)
  • Flora Fix™ (long lasting fragrance) (ID 3344)
  • Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (ID 6494)
  • Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (ID 7772)