Papaya Enzyme Serum Formulation Guide

Papaya enzyme, or Papain, is an effective ingredient for exfoliating skin cells, helping to reveal smoother, brighter skin. It works by breaking down the protein bonds that hold dead skin cells together on the skin's surface.

When formulating a serum with papaya enzyme, it's important to choose the right type of papain and follow specific guidelines to maintain its activity and stability.

Here are some types of papain and considerations for use:

• Papaya Enzyme (Papain) (Product ID: 1036):

  • This is a potent form that works best at a neutral pH (5.5-7.0).
  • It is sensitive to heat; avoid temperatures above 40°C.
  • Adding 0.1-0.2% Disodium EDTA can help improve stability by preventing metal ions from degrading the enzyme.
  • It is less stable when dissolved in water over time, making it more suitable for powder formulas or products where the enzyme is activated just before use.
  • Recommended usage rate: 0.1-1.5% (often 1%).

• Linked Papain (e.q. X-PRESSIN C) (Product ID: 6443):

  • This form is cross-linked with a polymer for improved stability in water-based formulas compared to standard papain.
  • It helps accelerate natural cell shedding by reducing protein adhesion.
  • Can be used alone or in combination with AHAs.
  • It is a liquid form with a pH of 5.0-7.0.
  • Avoid heat above 40°C.
  • Recommended usage rate: 1-5%.

• HyaCap™ Papain 16K (Encapsulated Papaya Enzyme) (Product ID: 125337):

  • Papain is encapsulated in gel beads (immobilized in Hyaluronic Acid) for significantly enhanced stability, even in formulas containing surfactants (though high concentrations of anionic surfactants/emulsifiers should be avoided).
  • The gel beads break upon application.
  • Add in the final step of formulation with gentle stirring to disperse the beads without breaking them.
  • Avoid heat above 40°C.
  • Recommended usage rate: 1-20%.

General Formulation Tips for Papain Serums:

• pH: Maintain the formula's pH within the optimal range for the specific type of papain used (generally around 5.5-7.0).
• Temperature: Always avoid exposing the enzyme to temperatures above 40°C during processing and storage.
• Storage: Store the finished product at a cool temperature (ideally 4-15°C) to maximize enzyme longevity.
• Water Activity: Lower water activity can help improve stability, especially for standard papain.

Choosing the best type of papain depends on your desired serum texture, stability requirements, and compatibility with other ingredients in your formula.