PEG/PPG-Free Alternatives for Water-in-Oil Emulsions

Based on your experience with PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone causing irritation and your preference to avoid PEG/PPG ingredients, we can look for alternative water-in-oil emulsifiers that are PEG/PPG-free.

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone acts as a water-in-oil emulsifier and helps stabilize the foundation formula, preventing separation and contributing to the texture.

From the search for PEG/PPG-free water-in-oil emulsifiers, several Polyglyceryl esters appear to be suitable alternatives. These ingredients function as water-in-oil binders and are commonly used in makeup formulations.

Here are some options you could consider:

• Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: This is used as a water-in-oil emulsifier in various make-up recipes. It has an HLB of about 4 and is typically used at a rate of 2-4%. It is a yellow liquid soluble in oil.
• Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate: Also used as a water-in-oil emulsifier in make-up formulations with an HLB value of about 4. The recommended usage rate is 1-5%. It is a yellow liquid that dissolves in oil.
• Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate: This is used as a water-in-oil emulsifier, particularly noted for use in water-drop formulations. It has an HLB value of about 5 and a usage rate of 1-5%. It is a yellow liquid that dissolves in oil.

These Polyglyceryl esters can help bind the water and oil phases in your foundation, similar to PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, but without the PEG/PPG structure that you suspect is causing irritation.

Keep in mind that replacing an emulsifier in a formula often requires some adjustments to achieve the desired stability and texture. You might need to experiment with the concentration of the new emulsifier and potentially other ingredients in your formula.