Perfect-C Concentration and Compatibility in Dark Spot Cream Formulation

Question

I currently have a cream formula containing Vitamin B3, NAG, ODA White plus, and White Cumin x2. This formula helps with overall skin tone but does not significantly improve dark spots. I have found that using a Vitamin C E Ferulic serum is effective for my dark spots.

I would like to improve my cream formula specifically for treating dark spots by incorporating Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate). Based on the staff's recommendation for using Perfect-C in a cream base:

Can I use Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) at a concentration of 3% in my cream base?
If I use 3% Perfect-C, can I combine it with my existing ingredients: NAG, ODA White plus, and White Cumin x2? I want to know if these ingredients are compatible and if they can work together effectively for dark spot treatment.
Is Vitamin B3 incompatible with Vitamin C in the same formula, as mentioned by the staff?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your experience, your initial formula (Vitamin B3, NAG, ODA White plus, White Cumin x2) helped with overall skin tone but not significantly with dark spots, while the Vitamin C E Ferulic serum was effective for you. This suggests Vitamin C is key for your hyperpigmentation.

To improve your cream for dark spots, you have two main approaches:

Approach 1: Enhance the existing formula

If keeping some original ingredients, consider adding actives known for dark spots like Activated Resorcinol (ID 493), Tranexamic Acid (ID 260), or Azelaic Acid (ID 224). Note that Vitamin B3 (ID 74) and Vitamin C are generally incompatible in the same formula; if adding Vitamin C, remove B3 or use them separately.

Approach 2: Vitamin C as the main active

Given your results, this is promising. The staff recommended Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ID 499) or Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G, ID 265) for a cream base. Perfect-C is stable, penetrates well, and converts to effective L-Ascorbic Acid.

Regarding Perfect-C concentration and combining with other ingredients:

Staff recommended 5% Perfect-C if used alone.
3% Perfect-C is suitable when combined with other nourishing ingredients. This means you can include ingredients like NAG, ODA White plus (ID 906), and White Cumin x2 (ID 721) alongside 3% Perfect-C for a synergistic effect on dark spots and overall skin health. You don't have to omit them.

Recommendation:

Given your positive response to Vitamin C, focusing on a cream with Perfect-C (ID 499) is recommended. You can use 3% Perfect-C and combine it with other actives like NAG, ODA White plus (ID 906), and White Cumin x2 (ID 721) for a multi-targeted dark spot treatment cream (remembering to exclude Vitamin B3 (ID 74) if combining with Vitamin C). Alternatively, a simpler formula with 5% Perfect-C as the primary active is also an option.