Perfect-C Solubility

Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. According to its description, it dissolves in oil. The product information does not indicate that it is soluble in glycols or other non-oil solvents. To incorporate Perfect-C into a formula, it typically needs to be dissolved in an oil or suitable emollient first.

Oil-Compatible Gel Thickeners

Since Perfect-C is oil-soluble, if you want to create a gel texture while dissolving Perfect-C and potentially minimizing the oily feel, you would need a thickener that can gel the oil phase or create a system where the oil phase is incorporated into a gel.

Here are a couple of oil-compatible thickeners that can be used to create an oil gel or thicken an oil phase:

• Oil Thick™ Soft: This creates a soft, translucent oily gel texture and can be used with various types of oils. It is mixed into the oil phase with heat (75-105°C depending on the oil). For a gel texture, a usage rate of 6-10% is recommended. You would first dissolve Perfect-C in your chosen oil or emollient, then add Oil Thick™ Soft and heat to create the gel.
• Oil-Fix™ O: This is a silica-based thickener designed for gelling oils or glycols. It can be dispersed in formulations containing oils, silicones, or hydrocarbons. It can also help stabilize water-in-oil formulations and has some emulsifying properties. The usage rate is 0.5-10%. If Perfect-C has some compatibility with glycols (though not explicitly stated), Oil-Fix™ O might be able to thicken a glycol phase containing it, or it can thicken an oil phase where Perfect-C is dissolved.

To use these, you would dissolve your desired percentage of Perfect-C (e.g., 1-10%, recommended 5%) in a sufficient amount of oil or emollient. The amount of oil needed depends on the total formula size and the concentration of Perfect-C. Then, add the chosen oil thickener at a rate suitable for gelling (e.g., 6-10% for Oil Thick™ Soft or within the 0.5-10% range for Oil-Fix™ O, adjusted to achieve the desired gel consistency). The specific percentage of oil and thickener will depend on your target texture and the total formula composition.

Pro Polymer vs. Carbomer Ultrez 20

Pro Polymer and Carbomer Ultrez 20 (equivalent to Carbomer U20) are both gel-forming agents used in cosmetic formulations, but they are primarily water-phase thickeners. They work by thickening the water portion of a formula, not the oil portion where Perfect-C dissolves.

• Pro Polymer: This is a gel maker (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) used to create gel textures in water-based formulas and creamy textures in water+oil formulas (emulsions). It is known for good electrolyte resistance and can create a thick, pudding-like texture at higher concentrations (>3%). It is mixed into the water phase.
• Carbomer Ultrez 20 (Carbomer U20): This is also a water-soluble polymer thickener (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) known for being easy and quick to disperse in water. It also offers good electrolyte tolerance. It requires neutralization with an alkali (like Triethanolamine) to a pH of 6-7 to achieve its thickening effect. Carbomer U21 is a similar type (also Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) that is self-wetting and works over a wider pH range (5-11).

Key Differences:
While both are water-phase thickeners with similar INCI names and good electrolyte tolerance, Carbomer Ultrez 20 (U20) is highlighted for its easy dispersion and requires pH neutralization to thicken effectively (pH 6-7). Pro Polymer can take longer to dissolve fully and can create a unique pudding-like texture at high rates. Carbomer U21 offers a wider working pH range (5-11).

Neither Pro Polymer nor Carbomer Ultrez 20 are designed to directly dissolve or thicken oil-soluble ingredients like Perfect-C in an oil-only system. If you were creating an emulsion (like a gel-cream with both water and oil phases), these would be used to thicken the water phase, and an emulsifier would be needed to incorporate the oil phase containing Perfect-C.

In summary, for dissolving and gelling Perfect-C directly, you need an oil-compatible thickener like Oil Thick™ Soft or Oil-Fix™ O, used in conjunction with an oil or emollient. Pro Polymer and Carbomer Ultrez 20 are water-phase thickeners used for different types of formulations.