Analysis of Your Perfume Cream Formula

Here is an analysis of your proposed formula for a long-lasting, soft, light, and easy-to-spread perfume cream, along with answers to your questions:

1. Can the formula be mixed as described? If not, how should it be adjusted?

The mixing steps provided are generally correct for creating a water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsion using Warp Cream Maker™ XL, where the water phase (Phase B) is added slowly to the oil/silicone phase (Phase A) while blending. However, the formula has a significant issue with the high concentration of Fragrance Oil at 20%.

• Adjustment Needed: The concentration of Fragrance Oil is excessively high for a body cream. Using 20% fragrance can cause skin irritation and may lead to instability in the emulsion. A typical usage rate for fragrance in body creams is between 1-5%. For a strong, long-lasting scent, you might go up to 5-10%, but 20% is generally not recommended for leave-on skin products. You should significantly reduce the Fragrance Oil percentage (e.g., to 5%) and increase the water percentage in Phase B accordingly to maintain the total formula percentage.

2. Does Phase C need heat before mixing? How to mix without exposing fragrance to heat?

No, Phase C (Fragrance Oil and Last Fix) should not be heated before mixing with the main formula. Fragrance oils are volatile and sensitive to heat, which can alter or degrade the scent. The instructions correctly state to add Phase C to the main formula after it has cooled down.

• Mixing Method for Phase C: Simply mix the Fragrance Oil and Last Fix together in a separate container at room temperature until well combined. Add this mixture to the main cream base after Phase A and B have been emulsified and the resulting cream has cooled down significantly (ideally below 40°C, or even lower if possible). Blend thoroughly to ensure even distribution.

3. Are any ingredients too high or too low in concentration?

Yes, as mentioned, the Fragrance Oil at 20% is too high for a body cream and should be reduced.

Other ingredients are generally within acceptable ranges:

• Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3): 5% is a recommended usage rate and beneficial for skin.
• Ethoxydiglycol: 2% is within the typical usage rate and regulatory limits for leave-on products.
• Magnesium Sulfate: 1% is within the recommended range for stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions.
• Mild Preserved Eco: 1% is within the recommended range for preservation.
• Silicone Gel, LipidSoft Lite, LipidSoft Spread: These emollients and texture enhancers are used at reasonable percentages to achieve a light, smooth feel.
• Siliwax Resin: 5% is at the higher end of the recommended range for creams (1-5%), but may contribute to the desired texture and film-forming properties. You could consider slightly reducing this if the texture is too heavy.
• Warp Cream Maker XL: 15% is within the recommended range for creating a cream texture.
• Last Fix: 5% is at the maximum recommended rate for cream/lotion formulas (3-5%). This high level is likely intended to maximize fragrance longevity, but ensure it doesn't negatively impact the texture.

4. Will the finished formula have a soft, smooth texture?

Yes, based on the ingredients, especially the combination of Warp Cream Maker XL (a W/Si emulsifier known for light, quick-absorbing textures), Silicone Gel, LipidSoft Lite, and LipidSoft Spread, the formula is designed to produce a cream with a soft, smooth, light, and non-greasy feel that spreads easily. The inclusion of Siliwax Resin can also contribute to a smooth film on the skin.

5. Can Last Fix be replaced with 12H Fix? If yes, what are the steps?

Yes, you can replace Last Fix with 12H Fix, but the mixing process is different because 12H Fix requires heat to dissolve.

• Replacement Steps:
  1. Prepare Phase A and Phase B as described (with the recommended reduction in fragrance oil and corresponding increase in water).
  2. After emulsifying Phase A and B and the main cream base has cooled down, prepare Phase C separately.
  3. To dissolve 12H Fix, you will need to heat it with an oil or silicone. The description for 12H Fix recommends using LipidSoft Lite at a rate of at least 2 times the amount of 12H Fix. Since you are using 5% 12H Fix, you would need at least 10% LipidSoft Lite for dissolution. However, your formula already contains 5% LipidSoft Lite in Phase A. You could potentially use some of the LipidSoft Lite from Phase A for this purpose, or add extra LipidSoft Lite specifically for dissolving the 12H Fix.
  4. Heat the 12H Fix and the required amount of LipidSoft Lite (or other suitable oil/silicone) together to 60-70°C until the 12H Fix is completely dissolved.
  5. Let this mixture cool down completely.
  6. Once cooled, mix this dissolved 12H Fix/LipidSoft Lite mixture with the Fragrance Oil.
  7. Add this combined Phase C mixture to the cooled main cream base and blend thoroughly for at least 15 minutes to ensure even distribution.

Note that the recommended usage rate for 12H Fix in a perfume lotion base is typically 2-3%, although up to 5% is mentioned for perfume spray. Using 5% in a cream might be possible but ensure it dissolves properly and doesn't negatively affect the texture.