pH Adjustment Issues and Whitening Agents for Masks

Question

I have questions about my cream formulation: Is the water content too low? Will it affect absorption? The pH was 8.37, and after adjusting with Citric Acid (1g), the cream immediately thinned. How can I fix this without making the cream sticky? Are there any pH adjusters that do not cause the cream to thin? Regarding whitening ingredients available on this website which are used for spa face masks (used weekly; customers prefer fast results): Are there any techniques or ingredients that can provide immediate whitening results after a treatment? Following up on question 4: Can I use higher concentrations of whitening agents than recommended in a mask (applied for only 5-10 minutes), given it's not for daily continuous use, similar to how clinics use them?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Regarding pH adjustment substances

Hello,

Here are the answers to your questions based on the information provided:

Water content and absorption: The water content is not too low and will not affect absorption. Ingredients like Propylene Glycol, glycerin, and pentylene glycol in your formula help with texture and absorption.
Citric Acid causing thinning and avoiding stickiness: The thinning occurred because the Satin Cream Maker you used is sensitive to acid. To fix this, you can increase the proportion of Satin Cream Maker or Pro Polymer. When adding Citric Acid, add it gradually in small amounts (0.1-0.2% at a time), mixing well before adding more. If the formula becomes too thin, add more Satin Cream Maker or Pro Polymer before continuing to add Citric Acid. To avoid stickiness, you can adjust the formula by reducing the amount of oils and ingredients known to cause stickiness such as Vitamin E, Vitamin B5, and Calendula Extract. Also, since you are using pentylene glycol, Propylene Glycol is redundant and can be removed.
Alternative pH adjusters that don't thin the cream: The thinning is due to the sensitivity of the chosen cream maker (Satin Cream Maker) to acid and electrolytes. Any acidic pH adjuster will likely cause some thinning with this specific cream maker. The recommended approach is to either use a cream maker that is not sensitive to acid/electrolyte or follow the gradual addition method and adjust the thickener/emulsifier as described in point 2.
Whitening ingredients for immediate results in a spa mask: For immediate skin whitening results after a mask, bleaching agents like Hydrogen Peroxide (which is legally permitted) can be used. However, the whitening effect is temporary (typically 3-6 hours). For a longer-lasting brightening effect after a 30-minute mask, you can try using Salicylic Acid. It will make the skin feel softer and appear brighter, although the immediate whitening effect is less dramatic than bleaching agents.
Using higher concentrations of whitening agents in a mask: Using ingredients beyond the manufacturer's recommended concentration carries risks. The maximum recommended usage rates are typically for continuous daily use. While a mask is short-duration, using higher concentrations can still cause adverse reactions. Dermatologists in clinics use high concentrations of substances like AHA because they have the expertise to understand the risks, predict skin responses, and adjust usage as needed. Unless you have a similar level of knowledge and can fully understand the potential side effects and risks, it is strongly recommended not to exceed the specified usage rates for any ingredient.

Thank you.
Staff - MySkinRecipes